'89 LT28 MOT failure

Pulled the seat out and took off the isolator, and began peeling the underseal, white. I have cut away about 8"x2" but I have also just run out of gas, so I may be arcing the repair. Oh joy. 

Thanks Mat, it did cross my mind. Hire is not really fair, yes I made it with my materials and time but I would prefer a trusting lend with a damage/loss waiver. Grief, that sounded almost legal. I can see a lot of things which I may make, front hub grease cap removal tool is just one more that comes to mind. I only needed it twice, but I was immediately thinking about next time.

I have considered creating a vacuum over the m/c cap. I used this technique to clear air bubbles from Tensol70, a two part acrylic adhesive. Not quite sure how to do it at the minute, but the brains a tickin'.

I have an EasyBleed, but I have just noticed that the first thing you do is introduce air into the reservoir.

Every time I look at this thread I read it hoping to hear good news! Fingers crossed for next time I check in...

That beer will taste so good once you have a new MOT in your hands.

Ok, back to basics. Having a break from welding my T3 so got a few mins.

From what I've read you have had all the brakes apart and the rears are not seating right, or were not earlier.
First check for bubbles in the master cylinder, if it's been dry it can happen.

Clamp off the rears at the flexi hose, and bleed the fronts. This should bleed the master cylinder.
If fluid coming out is clear, chuck it back in for the time being, can't be worse than the old stuff.
Do you get a decent pedal.

If so unclamp the rears, what is the pedal like now.

Yup, the rest is solid pipe along the axle. You can use anything that works if you don't have the tool, just make sure it isn't sharp. Have used mole grips with padded jaws for example.
Since you haven't dismantled the pads etc at the front, nothing should have changed.
As you probably know there are 2 circuits, just trying to find out which one is the problem although I suspect the rear cos it's all new.

Sorry mate, been busy fabricating and welding. Finished for today need munchies.

Pipes hold sod all fluid, it's the calipers and wheel cylinders so I don't think it's a pipe issue.
Anyway stick yer clamp on and bleed the front, try and save the fluid .
You won't get a perfect pedal cos of the air in the rear pipes but it should be half decent, and consistent. Hold the pedal down hard for 30secs, and if it don't move front is ok.

If the rear brake balance valve has a nipple bleed that.

Rears - Wind the shoes in as far as they go, to give the pistons something to push against.
Get a helper to pump the pedal 6 times and hold hard, crack the nipple. Repeat several times.
Same for the other side.

Wind shoes out, check brake pedal. You'll need to pump to push pistons out first.

If that don't work I can't think of anything else long distance.

Good luck!! (With your welding too)

Andy

Oi!!, wots wrong with our welding topic!!.
Nowt wrong with the link though, I get most of my stuff from there.

Halfrauds sell tips at a good price (packs of 5) if you have one local, cheaper than postage for small orders.
Think you might have to increase your gas flow (5% Argon), for 0.6mm mine is set at 8 cuft, not litres. Will let you do the maths. Basic formula is wire diameter * 10 + 2.

AndyT, the front was fine, rock hard. The rear is still the same. I did hear a little hiss from the master cylinder when pumping the pedal quickly. Everything you have said worked, or at least seemed to. The rear pistons are all free and moving, I could feel them when Littl'un was pumping the brakes.