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ENGINE LOSING POWER

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pentasure View Drop Down
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    Posted: 19 Apr 19 at 13:53
Some one please,
Microbus 2.6! 1999 model
It started quite some time ago, travelling in heavy slow speed traffic, it is as if the engine cuts out and then immediately go again. Travelling on the highway no problem, then gradually it start doing the same travelling on the highway.  
But then it all happens, did not even get a kilometre or two away from the house, just so that you can pick-up speed, the engine started the same even a couple of backfire, stuttering. 
Switch it off waited a very short while, made a u-turn, travelling back at about idling speed.
Had a technician over with a monitor machine, we have checked all the sensors, checked the fuel pressure started at about 4-bar and then between 2.5 and 3-bar, we have replaced ignition wires as well as distributor cap, problem persist. the moment you staring to exhilarate it looses power.
Although when stationary you can rev is up easily to 4000 rpm, no problem.
it idle just at or slightly below 1000 rpm.
If some has an idea I will really appreciate your help.
Wishing you more than enough!
Francois      
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AndyT View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr 19 at 17:44
Has to be a fault code, what are they?
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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pentasure View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pentasure Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr 19 at 16:39
Thank you Andy-T
Not sure what codes you are referring to, we had yje diagnostic machine on it and every sensor is just testing fine, we calibrated the timing and at idling it is absolute running perfect, all temperatures also tested very well.
But the moment you take it on the road and start to accelerate, it just don't want to go, it is as if it is not getting fuel or spark, it start to backfire etc.
coming back home at mere idling speed it's fine
What we did  so far
1. changed the cold start sensor on water inlet - found to be faulty
2. Changed the distributor + cap
3. Changed ignition wires
4. Changed the coil
5. Check fuel pump pressure
Wishing you more than enough!
  
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AndyT View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr 19 at 16:48
There are many diagnostic machines but not all report all the codes as they are generic. For example I had the aircon re-charged a while ago and they checked for fault codes, advised me there were none. But when I got home I scanned and there were 2.
I have the full version of VCDS, but there is a free limited version. The cable for the free version can be found on fleasbay etc for £5. I'd download this first, designed for VAG vehicles and will report more codes. You may not be able to reset them but hey it's cost sod all.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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pentasure View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pentasure Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr 19 at 17:10
Thanks again Andy T
I trust that the machine used is just fine, neen in use by the guys from Synchro Doctor, who does used it on a regular basis.
Blessings
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pentasure View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pentasure Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 19 at 16:36
Hi Andy T
Thanks again, on the machine we had here there are no signs of any fault, what we found though was a drop in amps of the fuel pump as soon as you accelerate, thus we did change the fuel pump, at first we thought that we had the problem under the belt, but when driving a distance  the and specifically when you want to use more power on open road or bit of uphill the engine just refuse to give, it looses power, start stuttering and even a few backfires as well, thus we are back.
we changed the fuel pressure unit on the injectors tube, no difference
Confused Totally confused
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AndyT View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 19 at 16:59
I'd still buy the cable and download vcds-lite, you can monitor loads of setting as you drive.
Just might give you a lead and costs sod all.
Misfires seem to point to timing/fuel issues but I am not familiar with your engine/electronics.
I'd also check for any vacuum leaks and check the maf and map sensors if fitted.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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DaveHobie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveHobie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr 19 at 03:26
If it is cheap enough, replace the ignition module. Always a good idea to keep one spare with you.

Make a bypass wire for the fuel pump relay, so when it misfires you can then prove if it is the relay or not. Do not keep it bypassed.

Check the wiring connector at the fuel pump for corrosion, as it warms up you could be losing power to the pump there.
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