T3 Doka "project" |
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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Its not easy doing the body work Jim it all takes time and its not something I've done before so its a real learning curve, this forum has really helped me. It would have been nice to buy original panels but cost comes into it and I want it to be a useable pick up not something that's too nice to abuse. The area I've struggled in most is using the doka everyday so whatever I do has to be finished for the drive home . Its not the best way to do it, driving home with wet undercoat on the side of your vehicle!!! I couldn't afford to pay someone to do it properly, I'am a big believer in you get what you pay for. Its not going to be mint but hopefully less rusty! |
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Don't start what you can't finish!
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rowlesy
Vanorak murdered the murderwagen Joined: 09 Oct 05 Location: up unit! Status: Offline Points: 6466 |
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she'll be mint when your done lits
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UberFukz broke another! sucky sucky five dollah!
always out numbered never out gunned! RWS welding 07846 380 467 (worcs) |
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jim potter
Yardie Joined: 03 Jun 12 Location: colchester Status: Offline Points: 569 |
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Looks like you are making good progress, i'm dreading having to find somewhere to do mine properly.
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Full vcds ,vag tacho,
immo removal ( postal service avalible ), ecu remapping , spanners and a garage for anyone that wants any help, kettle always on. |
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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Because damage was right on the corner it ended up being easier to cut section out and weld in another piece. cut and folded a piece. Not sure where my other pictures of welding fill in piece are, but the other corner needed attention too. Tacked into place. Welded round. Found some more rust which had been fillered over. Sanded it all back and cut out section. Cut a small piece of metal and put a step in it for where panels join and there's an edge. Then cut and folded section. Mainly making this up as I go along! Edited by Lits - 04 Nov 14 at 22:12 |
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Don't start what you can't finish!
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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More body work pictures, Can just see in bottom left corner metal quite pitted so cut small section out too. Got a little corner panel, under coated back then drilled some holes in the end and on returning edges so I could plug weld it on. Welded in place, it was quite a good fit I then decided to sand the paint from further up the rear corner. As soon as I started sanding i realised there was quite a bit of filler from a previous repair. Doka must have been reversed into something on corner! Edited by Lits - 04 Nov 14 at 21:13 |
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Don't start what you can't finish!
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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I used 40 x 40 box again for crossmembers and welded in 2 tapped plates to bolt brace above engine. This would give me something to attach the aluminium chequer plate engine cover to. Looks like there will be plenty of room to "work on engine" from above. Quick blast of undercoat. Because this is my daily drive I needed some way to keep water off the back till its covered with aluminium. So I decided to make a cover. Used some light rectangular box to make frame, which I covered with some reinforced fibreglass roof sheet removed from a due to be scrapped truck. Roof sheet had some aluminium corners and edging which I decided to reuse. I shaped corners of frame to suit aluminium trim, put some braces in and some flat to sit inside and outside pick up sides. I painted it then rivited the roof sheet, which had been cut to size, on top through the aluminium edging and corners. Edited by Lits - 08 Oct 14 at 21:56 |
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Don't start what you can't finish!
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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Thread resurrection time, work has been on going on the doka. My progress on up dates has been hampered by computer and then laptop giving up the will to carry on! I just couldn't get with posting pics and typing on the tablet! This seams a long time ago, I decided to open up over the engine bay and have a removable bar above the engine itself, I cut cross members out and started to remove the little bit of rust where cargo floor starts. The rust had formed where the panel sealer had cracked and let in water. Wire brushed up and then krusted. Updating this and putting all these pictures is going to keep me out of mischief More to follow. |
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Don't start what you can't finish!
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rowlesy
Vanorak murdered the murderwagen Joined: 09 Oct 05 Location: up unit! Status: Offline Points: 6466 |
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looks smart lits! hows about rivnuts for the ali floor and countersunk allen bolts to fix them down? you could put a blob of flexy sealer in each rivnut before you tightened it down? or rivet then seam sealer in the blind hole?
also hows about a nice roll-bar on top of that 40 x 40 box? make it look like its there for a reason then
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UberFukz broke another! sucky sucky five dollah!
always out numbered never out gunned! RWS welding 07846 380 467 (worcs) |
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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Why does the text I write only go half way across the page? |
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Don't start what you can't finish!
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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Once I'd cut the previous repair to the bed/load area bulkhead off and then started to remove any rust underneath, it became apparent that I was going to have to cut the lip which the drop sides butt against, as it was very crusty! The lip joined the rain channel? from the roof as well. I wasn't sure how to get round this because cutting back the lip also left the c pillar panel open down its edge (circled below). In the end I decided to make a frame from the 40 x 40 box which I got to repair the bed cross members. It meant that the drop sides had something to close up to, was fairly strong, and I could easily weld the c pillar to it. Once I'd welded where I wanted I ran some seam sealant along all the edges to make sure it was all water tight. I've decided to cover the load bed with aluminium chequer plate. Just need to figure out how I am to attach it (and keep it water tight). |
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Don't start what you can't finish!
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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I haven't posted for ages but I am still using the doka everyday, its only let me down once (that's it not starting tomorrow!) and that was due to a frozen accelerator cable! I decided to grind/cut this previous repair as there was rust coming through around the edges. What a task removing pieces like this is I decided to use a piece of galv sheet which was destined for bed replacement but was partially robbed for another job. Drilled plate to plug weld to back of pick up. Thought I'd replace the damaged cross member too. Have more pics to put on, hoping to get more done in coming months! |
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Don't start what you can't finish!
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jim painter
Yardie Joined: 17 Sep 08 Location: crewe Status: Offline Points: 706 |
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I used to have a blind bearing puller when i did a lot on the bikes but i sold it as i didnt have a lot of use for it. It was a cracking tool though.
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Jrp automotive welding, servicing and repair.
Cheshire 07854516387 Face book page. http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100002268471342 |
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..lee..
Vanorak Joined: 14 May 08 Location: llanelli swales Status: Offline Points: 1420 |
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Using a welder to loosen bearing races should be a last resort. You can ovalize the bearing carrier / hub. Check for ovality with an internal micrometer before refit.
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it`s a big round cage but there`s too many animals in it for my liking.to address this ring lee on 07977 765818.
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max and caddy
Vanorak Joined: 12 Dec 09 Location: Lancaster..uk Status: Offline Points: 4866 |
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but on a gearbox the holes are often blind so you cant get behind the race, there are tools for pulling bearings out of these hole but the mig is quicker and never fails, not much use if you want to shim the bearing and put it back tho of course!
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jim painter
Yardie Joined: 17 Sep 08 Location: crewe Status: Offline Points: 706 |
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I normally get a big washer or piece of steel and bridge the bearing hole so i dont have to tap around the edges. I just put a drift on said washer and tap it out.
Jim
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Jrp automotive welding, servicing and repair.
Cheshire 07854516387 Face book page. http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100002268471342 |
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max and caddy
Vanorak Joined: 12 Dec 09 Location: Lancaster..uk Status: Offline Points: 4866 |
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i do that on gearbox bearings at work, some times folk look at me like i have gone mental, works a treat. a real trade secret i reckon...well it was.
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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I borrowed brake flaring tool "just in case" before mot and thought i might as well do advised n/s/r brake pipe, i still had some rear stainless brake hoses from the kit which i used the fronts on last years mot. For a change all went well so i decided to do other rear pipe and hose. There was even someone in at work to give me a bleed! saved me spraying brake fluid around the inside of the van with my newly purchased ebay Eezibleed bleeding kit. I didn't take any pictures of doing the front bearings all fairly straight forward no real dramas, I used the mig to get the casings out don't know if anyone else uses this idea: If you carefully run weld round casing it contracts it, they then just tap out really easily. (I might be posting something obvious here but its something i ve done at work a few times) |
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Don't start what you can't finish!
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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Passed MOT Only 2 advisories, slightly corroded N/S/R brake pipe, and rear wheel slight binding (over enthusiastic hand brake adjustment) well pleased can carry on with load bed and my continual battle with the rust! |
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Don't start what you can't finish!
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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MOT Tomorrow Adjusted hand brake before work and fitted front wheel bearings to both sides after! Both were advisories last year! |
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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Ha ha vikings, see what you mean the cross members are a bit long-boatesk! Thanks for offer kooldubs, I haven't decided what to do with engine hatch yet. Think I am going to fabricate something but if not I ll PM you.
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Don't start what you can't finish!
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