T3 Doka "project" |
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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I was lucky enough to get the whole car with the AGG engine, it was an MOT failure rotten floor and suspension/steering felt like it was doing its own thing, especially on corners!!! But the engine was strong and seamed alright apart from water leak from somewhere on the side of block. The engine looked a bit un-loved so I decided to clean it up and paint a few bits. While I had it on the stand I wanted to connect up the loom from the donor and get it to run on the stand. GaryD's fantastic info pack came into its own and that along with some documents on the central electric 2 fuse board and all wires connected to it, made the wiring fairly straight forward. I did have trouble with the immobilizer the engine would run for only a few seconds, but after speaking to Jim Potter and then sending my ecu down to him for immobilizer removal, upon its return it fired first time and ran fine (although bloody loud with no exhaust!!!) |
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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Thanks for the offer Fufflenarnia, I have been without a laptop for several months so have only been on the yard on my phone and tablet which I couldn't get to grips with posting more than an odd comment. My flurry of recent posts (now laptop is operational) is more of a catch up to where I am now with the doka. The adapter plate is already made. Appreciate the offer, thats why I like this forum, lots of banter but people always try and help out |
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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With the engine running on the stand, I decided that it was worth doing a bit more with. Everyone always says "do the cambelt whilst its out" so ordered cambelt kit and with engine having a known water leak (I thought from coolant flange) but to be sure got a head gasket kit too. And it made it easier to clean and paint the block |
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Alonline
Vanorak VW Customer Service Joined: 18 Apr 10 Location: Belfast Status: Offline Points: 2517 |
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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Some more pictures of engine re-built and painted up. New oil filter, fresh oil and new plugs. Ran it again on the stand to make sure I hadn't done anything silly with cambelt swap. All ready for attaching to gearbox. |
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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Back to the adaptor plate, I measured the centre hole in the sacrificial bellhousing then drilled a hole that size in the metal plate and marked the centre lines of this hole to help me when rotating it 40 degrees. I used a piece of round bar to keep the plate and bellhousing in line. I marked and drilled through the first set of holes with the bellhousing in the "vertical" position, and also drew round outside edge - thats the black marker line. Then using my protractor I marked the centre line at 40 degrees and turned the bellhousing onto centre line. I repeated the drilling of the holes in new position and again drew round it. The vertical set of holes are the bolts which hold the adaptor to the gearbox, any of these holes which fell within the rotated bellhousing position needed to be vee head bolts to make them flush fitting. Also the there are 2 dowels on the gear box to help location, which are the middle holes. The holes for the diesel bellhousing at 40 degrees had to be drilled and tapped m8. The cut out is to allow for clearance of the big differential gear? I shaped the outer edge of the adaptor with cutting, grinding and flapper disks. Overall it wasn't as complex as I thought it was going to be, but the addition of a 10mm plate inbetween gearbox and bellhousing meant I would have to modify the input shaft and the splined collar which joins input shaft and gearbox output shaft? Edited by Lits - 12 Nov 14 at 22:21 |
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rowlesy
Vanorak murdered the murderwagen Joined: 09 Oct 05 Location: up unit! Status: Offline Points: 6466 |
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yes mate by whatever thickness the adaptor plate is. or space behind the cluich if your starter doesnt reachout far enuf.
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UberFukz broke another! sucky sucky five dollah!
always out numbered never out gunned! RWS welding 07846 380 467 (worcs) |
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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Yes the input petrol input shaft needs shortening by 12ish mm to be used with the diesel bellhousing, I was hoping that would mean only a few mm off because of the adaptor thickness but it needs removing from the unsplined spigot end. The extra adaptor plate thickness needs adding to the splined end which goes into the gearbox. Shortened input shaft The splined joining collar also needed extending to make sure it stayed central on both shafts and didn't slip towards the gearbox shaft reducing how much of the splined part of the input shaft it was on. (I am confused after that statement and I did it!) hopefully pics will make it clear. 10mm spacer turned and tigged onto collar. Not sure about spacer staying welded to hardened collar! This is the collar with its spacer attached and also the input shaft with its spacer screwed on. I used a bolt cut down and drilled and tapped the 10mm spacer for the input shaft. I struggled finding the right bolt, in the end the closest I could find was m7 x 1 (that common size ) The input shaft has the collar slid on then it is screwed down onto the output shaft of the gear box down here: The input shaft is screwed down till the 2 shafts touch then with the splines lined up the collar is pushed down till the cipclip which holds it in position can be put back in its groove. |
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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Now I had all the bits/bolts etc to attach adaptor plate to gearbox, bellhousing to adaptor plate and engine to bellhousing I decided to go for taking engine out of doka. I knew it wouldn't be done in just a couple of days like when using all diesel bits because I'd have to fabricate some kind of mounts to allow for upright engine. And there is always some unforseen problems. Old 1.9 DG It wasn't bad at all disconnecting pipes, wiring and mounts. Only one bolt seized on engine mounting bar. I did butcher the exhaust a bit but it was in a bad way. One hot tip is Jack T3 up high enough to get engine out easily. Ha Ha there was no going back at this point! |
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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Next I stripped engine from the gearbox, drained all the gearbox oil and cleaned up the casing a bit. Then I offered the adaptor plate to the gearbox and located it on the dowels. I made some locating dowels for the rotated bellhousing out of some 12mm bolts turned down. I used a new gasket and the m8 vee head bolts to bolt plate on. (I did use a couple of hex heads where bellhousing didn't cover). The bellhousing bolted up ok too, I used a new gasket on this side aswell. Before fitting the bellhousing I put a new shaft seal in. In theory this now means the engine will bolt up at 15 degrees. |
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max and caddy
Vanorak Joined: 12 Dec 09 Location: Lancaster..uk Status: Offline Points: 4866 |
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Good stuff...other than the oil drain plug no longer being at the bottom and as long as everthing is lined up perfect this is a good solution to use a standard box on a upright engine I reckon.
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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With the engine out I cleaned up the engine bay a bit removed a bit of surface rust, 2 bits that needed a little piece welding in. I painted the bay in zinc phosphate black. |
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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I can't find the pictures of the bay painted I'll keep searching. My plan was to lift engine into the bay bolt it to the reinstalled gearbox, then decide how I was going to make the mounts. We do have an engine hoist somewhere but I went for a more scrapheap challenge approach |
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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Yes Max and caddy the drain plug is a bit of a compromise, I did think about drilling and tapping my own in the casing but then thought better of it. I'll jump the gearbox oil change at a later date or when the box explodes!!! But it is definitely a cost effective way to install an upright inline 4 (so far). |
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max and caddy
Vanorak Joined: 12 Dec 09 Location: Lancaster..uk Status: Offline Points: 4866 |
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Could always tip the truck up a bit..
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Zebedee
Vanorak Joined: 08 Jan 09 Location: Maryport Status: Offline Points: 1121 |
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Two wheels on one side on drive up ramps to tilt pickup 15 degrees so drain hole is at bottom.
How come you made the adapter for between the gearbox and bellhosing instead of the bellhousing and engine? Edited by Zebedee - 27 Nov 14 at 12:19 |
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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I'll start doing some trig, work out the height I need to make my ramps!
I thought making adaptor plate for gearbox/bellhousing was easier to do, especially in keeping the two bolt pattens lined up. Also a spacer for flywheel would have been required I presume? Or do you mean machine bellhousing down 10mm to allow for adaptor like the flipped audi gearbox conversions have been doing? |
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koendd
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 06 Jul 12 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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cracking job you're doing there!
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vw t3 1.6td
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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Only 5 years 4 months since last Post!!! |
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Lits
Groupie Joined: 08 Jun 10 Location: W.Yorks Status: Offline Points: 119 |
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Don't start what you can't finish!
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