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'89 LT28 MOT failure

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LTCamper89 View Drop Down
Vanorak
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: '89 LT28 MOT failure
    Posted: 23 Jun 13 at 23:05
Ye gods, MOT time soon again.Shocked 

Dearly Beloved and I have been out tonight so I missed my 'manual reading night'.Wink

I did do them by the book, but, I think AndyT pointed out, there was an airlock, which meant I was bleeding the same section all the time. I rattled the pipes a few times between sessions of scrabbling underneath. That seemed to work and they were considerably better.

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/zero-electrics-all-of-a-sudden_topic80011.html After I got home, penultimate post, and got the damn thing running again, the brakes were even better.ConfusedThey are now becoming a little softer again, so I will be mainly under an LT again, soon.
1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote volition82 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jun 13 at 20:30
Are you still having trouble with brake pedal pressure?  I only ask because I was looking through the manual and read something which might apply to your problem.
 
If you read the section on bleeding brakes it's says that the front and rear are on separate systems so unless you touch the master cylinder you can bleed the front and rear separately.  When you bleed the rear you bleed it in the following order (assuming it's a right hand drive vehicle).  Rear left, rear right and brake pressure regulator.
 
I suppose it makes sense that you have to bleed the brake pressure regulator but I wouldn't naturally think that you have to.  Also you would think that it would have to be bleed before the wheel cylinders because it comes before them?  I can only think it's because it's higher than the rear wheel cylinders so if there's any air in the system it will rise to the brake pressure regulator?
 
Anyway i'm waffling.  But that could have been the reason why you had so much trouble bleeding the brake system?


Edited by volition82 - 23 Jun 13 at 20:32
1989 LT35 - 2.4 Lpg/Petrol - Converted To Camper
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug 12 at 18:02
No, not the dimmer. the temperature gauge is not functioning, the light is, just not the gauge.

I had to take it all out to do the fog light but had not noticed until today that they were not working. It will be something simple, probably the nut behind the wheel.
1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote volition82 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug 12 at 17:55
Just picked them up from the engineers now and one went on fine and the other required 'a little help'!  I suspect the shrink collar with the taper the shaft side slid straight on.  If I could do the job again i'd make sure they both had the taper or machine it if not. 
 
I made the mistake of using a tube when I did it.  Then I felt a bit of a wally when it was pointed out to me that it makes much more sense to turn it around and press from the stud side with the shaft going through a hole.  That way you are only pressing over a short distance.
 
It's annoyed me no end because i'm sure I could do the job now, but i'm a bit wiser now LOL  My dad told me to take it to the engineers in the first place and is now taking great pleasure in telling me ' I told you so' and 'you'd be £80 better off now'.
 
This might be a bit obvious but you haven't adjusted the dash lights out with the dimmer wheel?  Feel free to tell me to fook off if it's not LOL


Edited by volition82 - 17 Aug 12 at 18:24
1989 LT35 - 2.4 Lpg/Petrol - Converted To Camper
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug 12 at 16:36
My worries exactly, Volition82. So many ways it can go wrong for a first-timer. All the 'How-tos' in the world cannot get you over that first step. I decided too much to lose from the outset since no-one on here had done the job, or did not want to embarrass themselves. I think if the heat is right a tube slid down to knock the collar on would be sufficient. Any deformation would be on the end away from the bearing and ORing anyway.

We live and learn. I doubt I will need to do them ever again, but I think I would still go down the professional route, just in case, or until I can afford to cock it up royally.

I have done about a hundred miles so far and it all seems super. Yes, the brakes could do with bleeding again, but at least it stops quick enough at the moment.

I seem to have lost my dash lights, so into the murk behind the steering wheel for me soon.

See you on four wheels some time.Thumbs Up


1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote volition82 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug 12 at 15:27
Originally posted by LTCamper89 LTCamper89 wrote:

All is well except the brakes have gone off, a lot of soft travel compared to yesterday. I do have a big pot of fluid so I will have to check them out again.Confused
 
 
My brakes went a bit soft after a week or two.  Re-bleed the system again and the brake pedal was better than before.
 
I'm in the process of changing the rear wheel bearings as you have, what a nightmare of a job.  Because we have burning gear and a press at work I thought i'd have ago at doing it myself, which was a mistake.  I heated the bearing and it slide on the shaft right to the end no problems.  My worry with the shrink collar was they said to heat it cherry red then press it on.  As you know if you heat metal that hot and press it too hard it will change it's shape, also you have the seals to worry about as well.  So I thought as the bearing went on so easy I wouldn't heat the shrink collar so hot, just off cherry red which was a big mistake.  It went on so far and then because the work press wasn't quite big enough or powerful enough it seized on solid.  Had to cut it off and the bearing and buy a new one.  I got the new bearing from a local company rather than wanapart (but it was £80!) and the heat shrink collar on that kit had a taper on one end to help seat it better, which would have made the job easier.
 
It's down a local engineering shop at the moment and they are going to do it.  They are going to heat it correctly press it on and then cool it to protect the seal.  I was a bit worried about the cooling but they are an automotive engineering shop which has been around for ages with an excellant reputation.  I think where I went wrong was not heating the shrink collar hot enough.  I should have heated it to cherry red as it states then it would have slid on to the end and it just would have required a small press to make sure it and the bearing were seated correctly.


Edited by volition82 - 17 Aug 12 at 15:31
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 12 at 17:14
First trip out today, surprisingly the tip to get rid of the old kitchen.

All is well except the brakes have gone off, a lot of soft travel compared to yesterday. I do have a big pot of fluid so I will have to check them out again.Confused

Edit: ?Could be the auto-adjusters not doing their job?

Edit: Brakes fine again. Auto-adjusters must be working, just not funny to have 4" travel from none.


Edited by LTCamper89 - 09 Aug 12 at 12:15
1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 12 at 22:19
Originally posted by mat_the_cat mat_the_cat wrote:

Excellent, well done!Smile

Looks to be quite a lot of trapped mud on the underside, so might be worth giving it a good clean so areas that are still solid last longer.

Have not got up the nerve to turn the jetwash on it, incase it all falls on the drive. Just brushed off all the rest of the crap from the last eight weeks, well whatever did not end up in my hair.

Thank you all again for the support and guidance. I shall endeavour to do the same for others.ClapBeer
1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mat_the_cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 12 at 20:19
Excellent, well done!Smile

Looks to be quite a lot of trapped mud on the underside, so might be worth giving it a good clean so areas that are still solid last longer.
Mid engined, 6 cylinder, turbocharged 2 seater - it can only be a VW LT!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 12 at 17:11

Smile WooHooSmile

MOT passed, but they fitted a washer motor???...like I could not manage that.

Walking round in the rain, riding back in styleBig smile

Skippy, the Aussie garage man, drove it back from the MOT branch and thought it a 'sweet old bus, drives beaut'

Then I bollocked him for not ringing about the washer motor. Not picked up on the original test, but strangely no good today. Ditto the short rigid line to the NS calliper, and the section of line between the master cylinder and the front union. 'Bollocks, I said, They cannot go from fine to not fine in two months standing still.'  Had a nice little chat about the van, and what we are going to do with it. He knocked a tenner off for the lack of a call.

Anyway, not bothered particularly, but it means redoing the brakes again at some point. Actually enjoyed driving back, about 1/2 mile.Smile




Edited by LTCamper89 - 06 Aug 12 at 19:12
1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 12 at 12:38
AndyT, it is a full retest due to the inordinate amount of time I have taken. Nothing else has changed, got worse, but there is plenty to do, right enough. Now that I am mobile, almost, I should be able to get out and find panels which need less, better still no, repairing.

Good news later, maybe.Smile
1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 12 at 12:27
Can't remember if the MOT is a re-test or not, but there's a couple of similar rust spots that mine has failed on in the past. Need to get busy mate, cos it only gets worse if you leave it.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 12 at 12:12
Just walked back from the MOT station with high hopes.

When I came to do the fog light, I could not find the black wire in the loom so I ran a new one. ?Is it meant to be in the main loom running down the NS? Not too difficult, but not what I like to see. I decided to take off the trailer hitch and socket. Hitch was a bolt-on which blocked the steps when in position, and I do not have a trailer. The socket went because it was another add-on to the electrical system which was unprofessionally executed.



No photo-rich documentary though but it went better. More practise still though.

While I remember, I mentioned  the odd ORing when I did the half-shafts. I am still not sure of its' function, the little extra bit that is. There is a hole which connects the space behind the oil seal to the area surrounded by the ORings' extension. Once this is all bolted together, it forms a reservoir. The replacement bearing kit has a normal ORing which allows oil seeping past the seal to exit at the flange and so be an early warning of impending hard work. That is my belief, but I have been wrong before, and no doubt will be again.

While I was underneath I took some photographs of the damage that the tinworm has reeked. Best get some metal in since there will not be much left soon.

http://s1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/Chris-R-Batey/LT28%20Bodywork/

Quite pleased at the moment, though it has been a right royal pain at times. 

I know, welcome to the wonderful world of LT ownership....hopefully with an MOT later.Clap


Edited by LTCamper89 - 06 Aug 12 at 19:14
1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 12 at 14:06
Did not bother with a lamp today, blazing sunshine, which presents its' own problems for an auto helmet. The patch is in. Not pretty by any means, but it is solid. I will need to clear more of the underseal next time I do any.....and do a lot more practising. It underlines the necessity of having clean material. I found it awkward cutting and cleaning but I suppose there are worse places.


1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 12 at 20:22
Plenty spare headlamps...and bulbs...and a new leisure battery...worklight here I come.Clap
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 12 at 18:25
Takes a bit of learning, light needs to be bright enough to see the edge of the patch you are welding.
Don't bother with led stuff, and make sure the bulb is protected.
Old headlights work ace if you have one, otherwise £20ish for a decent light.

Got 2 of this type no complaints at all:-

http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-electrical-tools/inspection-light.html

Try ebay, possibly cheaper.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 12 at 17:49
Thanks again AndyT, first go was not too bad, sorry no picturesEmbarrassed 

The patch was fine for a first piece of tin-bashing, even the tacking was good, nice, round weld right where needed. The welding however, though it got a great hold was less than attractive. Another piece to cut and shape tomorrow, with a photo-rich documentary.

Following the joint is a bit of a pain, so a bit more light is needed too.

Sadly that is it for today, more fun tomorrow.
1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 12 at 16:14
Don't know, in theory.......

5 mins, take off the battery connections - that's what I do.
On modern vehicles can piss off the immobiliser etc, but on old stuff never had a problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 12 at 15:49
It has an isolator, which cuts both live and earth, so that is doing the job ?yes?

1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 12 at 15:42
Prsumably you are thinking about protecting the electrics.
If so just disconnect the battery.
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