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Petrol engine cutting out when hot

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Angelina View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Angelina Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Petrol engine cutting out when hot
    Posted: 22 Dec 14 at 13:08
Hello everyone, I thought I would come back to update this thread in case anyone else has same issues.
Got tune up man out who said it's definately an issue with the distributor. I ordered and fitted a new electronic conversion kit to the dizzy and it's all fixed now- had to get a different coil, a non ballast resist, as it doesn't have a condenser and points any more.

I'm hoping for a few more years of trouble free motoring from the old girl now!

Thanks for all your help :) 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Angelina Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 14 at 05:56
Thanks Andy, will print off and have with me when tune up man comes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug 14 at 16:39
Good luck, and if you do need to find parts etc let us know.
Below is the detailed info for testing the dizzy:-

Dwell angle 44deg -50deg

Dynamic Timing 5deg BTDC at 850-950rpm.

Centrifugal advance:-
Commences 1100-1500rpm
12deg to 16deg @2400rpm
23deg to 27deg @3400rpm
Maximum 32deg to 36deg @4200rpm

Vacuum advance:-
Commences 100mm Hg
Maximum 17deg to 21deg 310mm Hg
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Angelina Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug 14 at 15:04
Yes you are right, thanks Andy. I will give him a call :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug 14 at 14:27
I think we have done everything we can without a multimeter and strobe.
With both you can test the dizzy, the coil and all the wiring etc that goes with it.
Could be a loose connection somewhere or the ignition module, or the alternator supplying too many volts to the coil for example.
You have had 2 years trouble free running since you called the mobile guy out, I really would call him again before you fit any new parts.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Angelina Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug 14 at 12:24
Hmmm been googling "why is my coil getting hot" and I'm wondering if that is my problem? If the coil being so hot is causing the engine to cut out? Going to go for a drive with my spare coil, wait for it to cut out and try putting new coil on; although if this works, I have no idea how to rectify it! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Angelina Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug 14 at 10:10
Tried it with a new lead this morning and same problem still, it only does it when warm but cuts out completely, but will restart immediately. 
Am I now looking at new parts in dizzy or new dizzy? Going to give the place a call in Andy's link, see how much I'm looking at for parts. Do I try new rotar arm and cap first? 
Desperate to get it going again, I need to use it for 2 days in a couple of weeks which will cost me £100 per day in lorry hire, so I'd rather spend the money sorting mine!
Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 14 at 21:02
You can get a lead from any local car accesories, there's nothing special about them just need to be long enough. Take yours with you and they should have no problems matching it.

LTCampers bargain is just that even with £4 delivery on top.
Might be an option if the ignition module is suspect, go back to basics.

No idea why the coil is getting hot when new, but I'll do  a bit of googling.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote volition82 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 14 at 19:50
If it doesn't turn out to be the coil might be worth checking the wiring on the back of the ignition. If you have a dodgy connection it could cause it to just cut out like that.
1989 LT35 - 2.4 Lpg/Petrol - Converted To Camper
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jason k Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 14 at 19:43
Check the rotor arm for cracks too!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Angelina Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 14 at 19:20
Thanks, it's the new coil that's hot, (as was the old one)  it's definitely a ballast resistor, has that written on it. Wonder why the coil is getting hot?

I can't find just one lead to buy online, seems to be sets, if anyone could point me in the right direction? 

Will try the lead and give tune up man a call. Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 14 at 19:11
!!A full points setup, cap, arm, points and condenser, for less than a tenner!!!..if it is the right one.

Proper bargain, and worth having in the toolbox.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 14 at 19:02
Coil should not be really hot, it's a sign of it breaking down.
I'd dbl check that the one you bought is the right coil, needs to be a ballast resistor type.
Also worth replacing the king lead (top of dizzy to coil) only £5 tops.

If that doesn't work I'd suspect the electronic module on the dizzy, they do break down, had to replace mine on the RR.
Since you don't have access to a strobe and multimeter it might be worth calling the tuning guy.
If it is the module they are not too expensive £35 ish.

Don't know the model you have fitted but there are quite a few suppliers eg:-

http://www.simonbbc.com/electronic-ignition-kits

If you have any questions etc please ask.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Angelina Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 14 at 18:44
All pipes to/from fuel tank are new and tight on, carb isn't loose, the flap in carb opens and closes as I pull the choke in and out.

Had a look and there's no condenser on the dizzy.

The farmer took pity on me tonight while I was staring in to the carb forlornly and offered to take it for a drive to see what he thought- being more mechanically minded than me he is more clear about what is actually happening. 
He said it's actually just cutting out suddenly, but as I'm driving along when it does it, it bump starts it'self with the momentum which is why I feel like it's spluttering and kangerooing along.

When he got back it did it while it was idling and it just stops but will restart again straight away.
He said it's not misfiring and he thinks it must be electrical but not sure what. He did notice the coil is very hot, he didn't know if that is ok? 

Thanks again, thoughts much appreciated.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 14 at 15:25
I think you will still have a condenser but can't be certain as I've never fitted a conversion.
It's a metal cylinder shape attached to the side of the dizzy.

Sounds like your carb has been converted to manual choke at some point so I can't say if it has a shut off valve. If there isn't a wire leading to the carb Just have a look around to see if there is a bare spade terminal anywhere. I'll try and look up the carb to see.

Principle is the same though, check that when you pull the choke on the flap closes in the carb, and when choke is off the flap is wide open.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Angelina Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 14 at 11:56
Had a look at pipes going to and from tank, all new and tight on there, looked at air filter which is clean, will do some more later, was short of time this morning.

My carb is a pierburg 1b1 and it has a manual choke.

Thanks again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Angelina Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 14 at 11:53
Do I have a condenser as my points have been converted to electronic?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 14 at 08:25
No mate you didn't but I've seen too many people fitting new parts in desperation, when a few simple checks are all they need.

Timing will probably need looking at, should be 5deg btdc @900rpm and at the same time mechanical and vac advance checking. 10mins with a strobe light. Can post up details if needed.

As regards mot and air intake, could be a dirty air filter or fumes from breather.
If its the latter disconnect before MOT, plug back in afterwards.
Old 4 pots are pretty bullet proof but they do have to work hard in the LT.

At the moment my favourites are the condenser and the king lead, both are cheap to replace.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mat_the_cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 14 at 07:54
Good advice there Andy. I had assumed the pump was an engine driven one, so the fact it's in the tank makes vapourisation less likely.
Originally posted by AndyT AndyT wrote:

Don't go spending lots of money on a new dizzy etc until we have done a few checks.

Agreed - I hope I didn't come across as suggesting you should buy one on the basis of a blind guess!
Mid engined, 6 cylinder, turbocharged 2 seater - it can only be a VW LT!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Angelina Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 14 at 06:07
Ok thanks everyone, will get to work and report back.

Andy mentioning air intake reminded me the the garage man said he took it off to get through emissions for mot..?
Don't know why they adjusted timing, they said they don't have a strobe so did it by ear, it had been running really well for last 2 years since tune up man did it.
Thanks again
I did ask them to change all hoses when they did tank so hopefully they did! But will check
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