'89 LT28 MOT failure |
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LTCamper89
Vanorak Joined: 18 Apr 12 Location: The Toon Status: Offline Points: 4285 |
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Have not got up the nerve to turn the jetwash on it, incase it all falls on the drive. Just brushed off all the rest of the crap from the last eight weeks, well whatever did not end up in my hair. Thank you all again for the support and guidance. I shall endeavour to do the same for others.
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1989 LT28 2.4D Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music
VW LT Camper not Cramper ....at least the roof is not rusting away.... |
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LTCamper89
Vanorak Joined: 18 Apr 12 Location: The Toon Status: Offline Points: 4285 |
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First trip out today, surprisingly the tip to get rid of the old kitchen.
All is well except the brakes have gone off, a lot of soft travel compared to yesterday. I do have a big pot of fluid so I will have to check them out again. Edit: ?Could be the auto-adjusters not doing their job? Edit: Brakes fine again. Auto-adjusters must be working, just not funny to have 4" travel from none.
Edited by LTCamper89 - 09 Aug 12 at 12:15 |
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1989 LT28 2.4D Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music
VW LT Camper not Cramper ....at least the roof is not rusting away.... |
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volition82
Yardie Joined: 06 Jan 10 Location: somerset Status: Offline Points: 972 |
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My brakes went a bit soft after a week or two. Re-bleed the system again and the brake pedal was better than before.
I'm in the process of changing the rear wheel bearings as you have, what a nightmare of a job. Because we have burning gear and a press at work I thought i'd have ago at doing it myself, which was a mistake. I heated the bearing and it slide on the shaft right to the end no problems. My worry with the shrink collar was they said to heat it cherry red then press it on. As you know if you heat metal that hot and press it too hard it will change it's shape, also you have the seals to worry about as well. So I thought as the bearing went on so easy I wouldn't heat the shrink collar so hot, just off cherry red which was a big mistake. It went on so far and then because the work press wasn't quite big enough or powerful enough it seized on solid. Had to cut it off and the bearing and buy a new one. I got the new bearing from a local company rather than wanapart (but it was £80!) and the heat shrink collar on that kit had a taper on one end to help seat it better, which would have made the job easier.
It's down a local engineering shop at the moment and they are going to do it. They are going to heat it correctly press it on and then cool it to protect the seal. I was a bit worried about the cooling but they are an automotive engineering shop which has been around for ages with an excellant reputation. I think where I went wrong was not heating the shrink collar hot enough. I should have heated it to cherry red as it states then it would have slid on to the end and it just would have required a small press to make sure it and the bearing were seated correctly. Edited by volition82 - 17 Aug 12 at 15:31 |
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1989 LT35 - 2.4 Lpg/Petrol - Converted To Camper
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LTCamper89
Vanorak Joined: 18 Apr 12 Location: The Toon Status: Offline Points: 4285 |
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My worries exactly, Volition82. So many ways it can go wrong for a first-timer. All the 'How-tos' in the world cannot get you over that first step. I decided too much to lose from the outset since no-one on here had done the job, or did not want to embarrass themselves. I think if the heat is right a tube slid down to knock the collar on would be sufficient. Any deformation would be on the end away from the bearing and ORing anyway.
We live and learn. I doubt I will need to do them ever again, but I think I would still go down the professional route, just in case, or until I can afford to cock it up royally. I have done about a hundred miles so far and it all seems super. Yes, the brakes could do with bleeding again, but at least it stops quick enough at the moment. I seem to have lost my dash lights, so into the murk behind the steering wheel for me soon. See you on four wheels some time. |
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1989 LT28 2.4D Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music
VW LT Camper not Cramper ....at least the roof is not rusting away.... |
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volition82
Yardie Joined: 06 Jan 10 Location: somerset Status: Offline Points: 972 |
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Just picked them up from the engineers now and one went on fine and the other required 'a little help'! I suspect the shrink collar with the taper the shaft side slid straight on. If I could do the job again i'd make sure they both had the taper or machine it if not.
I made the mistake of using a tube when I did it. Then I felt a bit of a wally when it was pointed out to me that it makes much more sense to turn it around and press from the stud side with the shaft going through a hole. That way you are only pressing over a short distance.
It's annoyed me no end because i'm sure I could do the job now, but i'm a bit wiser now My dad told me to take it to the engineers in the first place and is now taking great pleasure in telling me ' I told you so' and 'you'd be £80 better off now'.
This might be a bit obvious but you haven't adjusted the dash lights out with the dimmer wheel? Feel free to tell me to fook off if it's not Edited by volition82 - 17 Aug 12 at 18:24 |
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1989 LT35 - 2.4 Lpg/Petrol - Converted To Camper
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LTCamper89
Vanorak Joined: 18 Apr 12 Location: The Toon Status: Offline Points: 4285 |
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No, not the dimmer. the temperature gauge is not functioning, the light is, just not the gauge.
I had to take it all out to do the fog light but had not noticed until today that they were not working. It will be something simple, probably the nut behind the wheel.
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1989 LT28 2.4D Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music
VW LT Camper not Cramper ....at least the roof is not rusting away.... |
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volition82
Yardie Joined: 06 Jan 10 Location: somerset Status: Offline Points: 972 |
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Are you still having trouble with brake pedal pressure? I only ask because I was looking through the manual and read something which might apply to your problem.
If you read the section on bleeding brakes it's says that the front and rear are on separate systems so unless you touch the master cylinder you can bleed the front and rear separately. When you bleed the rear you bleed it in the following order (assuming it's a right hand drive vehicle). Rear left, rear right and brake pressure regulator. I suppose it makes sense that you have to bleed the brake pressure regulator but I wouldn't naturally think that you have to. Also you would think that it would have to be bleed before the wheel cylinders because it comes before them? I can only think it's because it's higher than the rear wheel cylinders so if there's any air in the system it will rise to the brake pressure regulator? Anyway i'm waffling. But that could have been the reason why you had so much trouble bleeding the brake system?
Edited by volition82 - 23 Jun 13 at 20:32 |
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1989 LT35 - 2.4 Lpg/Petrol - Converted To Camper
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LTCamper89
Vanorak Joined: 18 Apr 12 Location: The Toon Status: Offline Points: 4285 |
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Ye gods, MOT time soon again.
Dearly Beloved and I have been out tonight so I missed my 'manual reading night'.
I did do them by the book, but, I think AndyT pointed out, there was an airlock, which meant I was bleeding the same section all the time. I rattled the pipes a few times between sessions of scrabbling underneath. That seemed to work and they were considerably better. http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/zero-electrics-all-of-a-sudden_topic80011.html After I got home, penultimate post, and got the damn thing running again, the brakes were even better.They are now becoming a little softer again, so I will be mainly under an LT again, soon. |
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1989 LT28 2.4D Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music
VW LT Camper not Cramper ....at least the roof is not rusting away.... |
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