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1.6TD head leak

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PGerald View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PGerald Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 1.6TD head leak
    Posted: 20 Jul 20 at 08:34
Hi

New member here!

Alas, my '88 T3 1.6TD red light started to flicker. Temp gauge was normal. Checked the coolant reserve tank level (behind no plate) which was fine. Checked the expansion container (blue top) which was a bit low (almost empty), so I topped it up. New water pump + thermostat + blue expansion cap fitted around 400 miles ago .

My mechanic found was some coolant trace below on the side of the rocket cover (looking down on the left rocker side). He did a compression test and said the head was leaking. He added some leak additive.

Drove it for about 200 miles. Red dash light began to flicker. Both the dash temperature gauge and plastic fill up container level (behind no plate) were normal. But had to top up the the blue top container and drove it about 100 kms. Then the red light flickered. Again, the temperature gauge and plastic fill up container level were fine but had to top up the blue top container again.

The previous owner had the engine rebuilt by a VW garage around 48000 miles ago

Question:

Based upon the above info,

1) Do you think the head is warped or cracked?

2) If warped, can I have it skimmed? (not sure if the head was skimmed when it
   was rebuilt))

3) If it was skimmed, can it be skimmed again?

4) If so,what is the minimum head thickness for it to be skimmed?

5) If skimmed, what other head repairs / parts would you advise?

6) If cracked, can it be welded

7) Or, is it a case of a new reconditioned head?

Any advice would be most appreciated!

Thank you



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912 View Drop Down
Yardie
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 912 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 20 at 08:40
If the tank behind the number plate is full and the levels not altering but the header tank level is altering ( it should remain full to the brim) then I would try a new genuine blue cap , it could not be drawing coolant back from the number plate tank 
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PGerald View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PGerald Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 20 at 08:45
Hi

Thanks for your prompt reply!

Last year, I bought a new Brickwerks blue cap thinking that might be the problem but alas, it doesn't appear to be after the pressure test.

Thanks anyway my friend!.
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randolph57 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote randolph57 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 20 at 13:48
1. Yes quite possibly
2. Have heard of it being done but Bently manual says No.
3. No
4. Depends on warpage and (2) above
5. A 3 tab head gasket (Thickest)
6. IMO there will always be cracks around glow plug ports but cracks between valves are the problem
7. Possibly


I dont mean to be facetious but you can only answer some of these questions if you whip the head off and examine. On my 50000km genuine vw engine replacement the head gasket failed but i found the cracking in that head in any case. The cheapest option was just a gasket and stud replacement hoping the cracks were not terminal. I drove it successfully for a couple of years before i went down the TDI route.You may also get lucky!
head gasket change although fiddly because of the angle  is actually straight forward to do and what i would be looking at first. from memory bolts and gaskets are around 15 quid each.

Have you checked all round the vehicle clamps/hoses for signs of any leakage?


Edited by randolph57 - 20 Jul 20 at 13:50
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PGerald View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PGerald Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 20 at 14:36
Hi

Many thanks. Very helpful advice indeed!

I went up to my very knowledgeable mechanic who already diagnosed where the leak was from and he said it was cracked and not a warped head.

So now I have to decide whether to buy a new head (£533 in Brickwerks) + head gasket + gasket set + bolts + timing belt + tensioner. So between parts & labour it will be around the £1100 mark.

Seeing as the engine was rebuilt about 48000 miles away and there are no oil leaks or, usage (a bit if I go over 100-110 kms) I think I may have the above repairs done. Then I'll have peace of mind! T

Probably the next thing i'll have to do is the clutch (fine now)

The 'turbo' never seemed to work as any hill I have to drop down to second if it's steep.

From your experience, does a turbo make any difference?

What goes wrong with the turbo?

Many thanks again.
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randolph57 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote randolph57 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 20 at 21:20
im not dissing your mechanic who is probably correct but you still need to check first as although not loosing fluid my head gasket failed between 3 and 4 cylinder -if the cylinder head was cracked to water passages i would expect the water system to be pressurised at the least.

Still advise lifting the head to be sure.

With the turbo you need to check the LDA ooperation which is a vacuum can connected to the fuel pump by hose. sometimes the vacuum cans fail or hose to inlet manfold is broken or even the blow off valve has stuck open/failed. (people bung these with a proprietry object). If the LDA isnt operating the turbo wont boost and will not pull the skin off a rice pudding.

A vacuum pump can show you if LDA can work

get checking!

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PGerald View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PGerald Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 20 at 21:40
Re: Turbo

Ok many thanks for your valuable & helpful advice!

Will do those LDA cheks.

Thanks again.
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