How to stop an LT getting stuck

I have the same problem and it drives me nuts, especially on light snow/ice. I have a set of chains for the wheels but that can be a real pain.

Off road isn't somewhere LT's are designed for, too little weight over the driving wheels and low gearing.
Keeping a full tank of fuel will add weight @ 10lbs a gallon, but maintaining momentum is the key.
If you do get stuck, then an old bit of carpet etc under the spinning wheel can help, as can applying the handbrake slowly. Bound to be some advice on youtube etc.
Chains will help to maintain momentum but fit them before you get stuck.

Winter tyres may help too.

An old trick is to partially apply the handbrake (if it operates on the drive axle) - this will reduce the spinning and transfer some torque away from the spinning wheel back to the one with more traction.

If anyone has an old carrier center I can maybe match something up and send the results back out to the community; can maybe fit the axle gears into an alternate LSD or locker carrier

I have the ELSA software which lists parts and shows images but alot is no longer in stock from VW germany; they threw it all in the scrap bin; gear sets nada...

Maybe an 8" lsd centre from a pajero might be able to be adapted... All that's need is the planetary gearset and stock crownwheel adapted to what ever carrier. I did an MG TF years ago; went from 4.875 to 3.9. All the white-coats said the car would never pull it. Haha, thing did 110mph straight past xjs's; cruised at 70mph and gave back 45mpg!

Information that I've found says the 4x4 units were built by a third party separate to VW

If anyone has a centre carrier they can measure up I can maybe match/machine something up. Can't be too hard, its just metal...

Understand... I've been turning tools since age three... Unconscious awareness...

Canada, all you need to do is get a good text book about gearboxes and final drives and start reading; one that shows you the line of movement through various components. It's really simple stuff. If you can understand how a spanner turns a nut then you're 85% of the way there!

If you can use a lathe and mill and have access to them then you can mod out a diff center from a suitable donor vehicle. All you do is match up the exterior sizing of the OEM center; distance between main carrier bearing journals, the inside diameter of the crownwheel mount, match up the fixing threads of the new crownwheel and the distance (off center location) of the crownwheel mounting face between the two main journal mounts. i.e. the crownwheel needs to be located in the same exact position relative to the input pinion gear. Any carrier of similar dimension can be adapted so long as you follow the above.

Additionally you need to adapt the actual 'differential' planetary gearset (the inner small four gears) to the new carrier in order to retain the OEM axles with matching splines.

A bit of micrometer measuring involved, fitting spacers and shims, possibly some grinding.

You will still be left with a restricted choice of available final drive ratios but you will get your diff lock or lsd.

Depends how much originality you want to retain.

The real crap stems from the 5 x 160mm PCD used for the road wheels. What a dumb idea. Its the only dumb idea I've come across on the LT

Yes, the crown wheel and ring gear are the same thing; commonly referred to as 'ring & pinion' pinion being the smaller gear. Depends on what country you're in.

You can find out your ratio by jacking up one rear wheel mark the tire and drive shaft with chalk, count how many turns of the drive shaft to one turn of the road wheel and divide by two. That will be your ratio. Mine's 4.875:1. There's also a flat spot on the top and/or right of the diff housing .

Go to the tech section and download LT gearbox and final drive PDF and look at the pics to find out exactly where it is.

<http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/technical-manuals-current-link_topic57738.html>

Here are some OEM build plate codes and part numbers to get you started:

FINAL DRIVE RATIOS

9E/8B - 53/14 - 3.78:1 - P/N 281/291 525 143 G - MODEL 5T - $1300 AUS

5T    - 53/13 - 4.07:1 - P/N 281/291 525 143 H - MODEL 9E - $800 AUS

8Y    - 41/10 - 4.10:1

9C/8W - 40/9 - 4.444:1

6C/8V - 39/8 - 4.875:1

8C/2L - 43/8 - 5.375:1

7C    - 41/7 - 5.857:1

AGJ   - 45/7 - 6.420:1


CARRIER - 291 525 121 A - 8V/8C/6C/7C/9C/9E/5T/AGJ

CARRIER - 281 525 121 A - 2L/8Y8V/8W/8B

Again, all parts are no longer available from VW Germany.

This chat is starting to get off the subject a little. I'm likely to get the stick for getting too technical. So just PM me if you want more guidance. If you want P# for the diff lock I could probably trace them, but they will be of no real use as all stock has been deleted.

BTW Ford Mk6 T1N transit vans use a 3.77:1 ratio

Instead of taking this to PM, perhaps it could be moved to the technical section? This way others can benefit from this information in the future..