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Welding Projects

Printed From: The Brick-yard
Category: LT, Crafter & Sprinter Section
Forum Name: LT, Crafter & Sprinter Tech
Forum Description: All LT, Crafter & Sprinter tech related stuff in here
URL: http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=31778
Printed Date: 30 Nov 20 at 19:52
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.01 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Welding Projects
Posted By: mikebdomain
Subject: Welding Projects
Date Posted: 14 Oct 08 at 10:01

Some welding on my rear quarter.... Don't know whether this is the right place, I just wanted to show what is possible even with no prior welding experience. This was my first welding ever and the first of loads of welding on my ol bus...

 
What it looked like after removing the bumper and prior to cleaning
 
What it looked like after being cleaned up with a wire brush (what a bloody mess)
 
I couldn't buy the rear quarter part from anywhere - believe me I tried, so after a little fabrication this is what I ended up with
 
 
And with the bumper back on...


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1995 LT35 2.4 Diesel
Camper conversion



Replies:
Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 17:15
Hi Folks,

Here's the place to post your before and after pics, or how do I repair this pics etc.

Cheers

Andy


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: mikebdomain
Date Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 18:58
Yipee Smile

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1995 LT35 2.4 Diesel
Camper conversion


Posted By: mikebdomain
Date Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 19:07
The floor after removing the previous owners floor covering - I don't like the look of those worrying signs of rust.
 
 
 
I knew I didn't like the look of that rust...
 
Time to get on with it...
 
That's the floor done - bring it on...
 


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1995 LT35 2.4 Diesel
Camper conversion


Posted By: mikebdomain
Date Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 19:12
Replacing part of the sill .. I'm getting used to this rusty ol bus..
 
Cleaned and the rust cut away
 
New piece welded in place, filled and undercoat on...


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1995 LT35 2.4 Diesel
Camper conversion


Posted By: mikebdomain
Date Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 19:19

LOL - sorry about this, but I did say you would need some space - last one - I promise...

Bent and buckled side panal

Area cleaned of all rust with a wire brush. I decided NOT to cut away the old non rusty body work.
 
 
Plates welded in place - although the pic shows the middle section just tacked I did weld it as a solid weld all the way across (Honest) just forgot to take a picture - Not pretty, granted - but it is solidly in place and welded right through.
 
And now for the filler and primer...
 
Looks better now it has had a top coat and is dressed etc...
 


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1995 LT35 2.4 Diesel
Camper conversion


Posted By: mikebdomain
Date Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 19:22
Thanks for putting the thread up Andy - I'm looking forward to see other members welding projects soon...

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1995 LT35 2.4 Diesel
Camper conversion


Posted By: rockradio
Date Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 19:31
Very interesting stuff and good work with the welding guys. Very neat job on that sill/skirt repair. How did you get the weld edge slightly recessed so you could make a smooth layer of filler. I presume the plate welded in was put behind the body and welded like that? Do you have to hammed the weld to make it recessed for filling?
 
Also worth the rest of us taking note about the places the rust has got to and get those places brushed up/sprayed with old oil on our vans if not gone yet. I noticed on mine the bottom of those strenghening struts on the inside of the sill/skirt is a place where rust likes to start. Had a couple of little rust bubbles show, but a soaking in oil has stopped it getting any worse for a year or two now. Also worth taking care of the rear of the rear arches for obvious reasons and giving a good coating of old oil. Looks like the rear quarters suffer a fair bit too. Mine is not great on the off side, but has had a repair there in the past (previous owner, not me).


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LT35 camper 1987 2.4 litre 6 pot diesel, DW engine, no turbo, no PAS.


Posted By: mikebdomain
Date Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 19:41
on the sill I ground the edges of the sheet metal and bodywork to approx 45 degree angle so it has a decent grove and welded flush.
 
After replacing about half of the strengthening structs - I went around the whole lot and fulley under coated them, then drilled a drainage hole, as the water seems to collect just behind them. Obviously I primed painted and undercoated the drainage holes - I'm hoping this will stop those areas from rusting again.


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1995 LT35 2.4 Diesel
Camper conversion


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 19:50
Check these out for bodywork repairs, bought em as soon as I saw them.

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8351&frostProductName=Intergrips%20%28pack%20of%205%29&catID=33&frostCat=Welding&frostSubCat=&subCatID= - http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8351&frostProductName=Intergrips%20(pack%20of%205)&catID=33&frostCat=Welding&frostSubCat=&subCatID=


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: rockradio
Date Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 19:57
Originally posted by mikebdomain mikebdomain wrote:

on the sill I ground the edges of the sheet metal and bodywork to approx 45 degree angle so it has a decent grove and welded flush.
 
After replacing about half of the strengthening structs - I went around the whole lot and fulley under coated them, then drilled a drainage hole, as the water seems to collect just behind them. Obviously I primed painted and undercoated the drainage holes - I'm hoping this will stop those areas from rusting again.
 
Good tip about the 45 degree edge. I'll remember that for when I get my welding gear next year (saving up at moment).
 
When I first got my van I went around the underside with that black "waxoyl" stuff in a spraycan. Really wish I hadn't now as it seems to almost make any rust worse. Soon shows through and when its taken off there seems to be a sandwich of metal/rust/black underseal stuff. I got a bit too much at the bottom of those sill struts and now there is a big lump of it at the bottom where it joins the body. I can't easily get it out and for now I've just soaked it with oil as it dries out within a few months after spraying it. Good idea about the drainage hole. I'll remember that if I ever have to do some serious work on them.
 
Great job on the welding man!


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LT35 camper 1987 2.4 litre 6 pot diesel, DW engine, no turbo, no PAS.


Posted By: mikebdomain
Date Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 19:57
Fantastic stuff Andy... Got my order in...
 
But I find this a little difficult to believe "end result is a first class welded butt joint with very little dressing being necessary." As I can only seem to weld with 1mm wire, I end up with tons of dressing to do - Mind you anything that helps in holding plates in place is a benefit.
 
On flat plates I use strong magnets (from an hold motorcycle tank bag)


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1995 LT35 2.4 Diesel
Camper conversion


Posted By: mikebdomain
Date Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 20:13
rockradio - the secret I found with any undersealing is make sure you do a really good clean up first or else all your doing is sealing in the moisture and rubbish and it will rust, probably (as you say) worse as the moisture will not evaporate on a hot day, but is able to continue attacking the metal, protected from evaporation by the lovely layer of sealant you provided.
 
I always do a good clean up and remove any surface rust. If there is any bear metal I use a good quality zinc primer, then a good thick topcoat - halfords cheapest matt black does the job for me for any work underneath. Then I will apply the undercoat. I did the whole of the underneath of the van this summer, including the void between the inner and outer sills - the whole job took 15 x 500mm spray cans and 3 x 5 Litre cans of brush on.
 
This was me after the job
 
My wife though it was hillarious - The state of my face was even with wearing a mask (dodgy stuff, underseal) IF I EVER do it again I would change the mask after every other can used...


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1995 LT35 2.4 Diesel
Camper conversion


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 20:14
My mig uses 0.8 so I guess it puts down a smaller weld and therefore easier to clean up with the grinder. Also use magnets occasionally, as well as the odd pop rivet to hold stuff in place.

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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: mikebdomain
Date Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 20:21
Andy - I tried 0.6 and 0.8 my mig will take all three with a change of tip - but I just couldn't get on with either - 0.6 the wire seemed to burn back to the tip too quicky no matter what power or wire speed setting I had - and even with 0.8 I couldn't get a weld I was happy with - mind you I am a bit OCD - and if the weld is not right through I have a tendancy to grind it off and do it again. I found with 1mm wire I could turn the power up just enough so as not to buckle the plate, but get a nice 'burn through' - the downside is I am left with a lot of weld to take off, still I would rather that and know that the weld is solid.

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1995 LT35 2.4 Diesel
Camper conversion


Posted By: rockradio
Date Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 20:39
Originally posted by mikebdomain mikebdomain wrote:

rockradio - the secret I found with any undersealing is make sure you do a really good clean up first or else all your doing is sealing in the moisture and rubbish and it will rust, probably (as you say) worse as the moisture will not evaporate on a hot day, but is able to continue attacking the metal, protected from evaporation by the lovely layer of sealant you provided.
 
I always do a good clean up and remove any surface rust. If there is any bear metal I use a good quality zinc primer, then a good thick topcoat - halfords cheapest matt black does the job for me for any work underneath. Then I will apply the undercoat. I did the whole of the underneath of the van this summer, including the void between the inner and outer sills - the whole job took 15 x 500mm spray cans and 3 x 5 Litre cans of brush on.
 
 
I've learnt my lesson of trying to do a quick job just to protect it for the winter. Couldn't get seriously involved with van at time and just thought I'd do a quick protection job to the underside as winter approached, but now wish I had left it until I had more time. This was back in 2002 and spent a lot ot the time since making good what I did then.
 
You look similar to how I looked after an afternoon brushing on old engine oil. Can't wait to get started with my welding. I keep looking on ebay for a 130 amp gas/gasless MIG type as I understand this would be the best to get started with. I've already found a 1ft x 1ft sheet of steel in my garage left by the previous owner and apart from wire and a good mask I can't think of anything else I need to get started. Perhaps a few clamps?
 
This is all heavy engineering for me as the most I've ever gone to is soldering electronics which I used to do as a living. Really looking forward to getting started when I have saved up enough or see something going for a song on ebay.


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LT35 camper 1987 2.4 litre 6 pot diesel, DW engine, no turbo, no PAS.


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 21:09
Mike, you could try this forum regarding thinner wire

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/index.php - http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/index.php

I haven't posted anything yet apart for a request for a manual for my old machine ages ago, but they seem a friendly bunch





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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: team french
Date Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 21:16
i got two sets of welding clamps(the mole grip types) from aldi, bout a tenner a set if i remember right with three clamps in each set. was a while ago but they will probly have them in again sometime.

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1978 2litre LT28 abbomination!!!!


Posted By: thal
Date Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 21:48
Hi my tip for but welding in sections if you dony have a joggler is cut some matchbox size pieces of steel and tac weld these in behind and across the corners of the hole place your new section on top of these and tac in place. this will hold your patch without clamps while you stitch it in.


Posted By: mikebdomain
Date Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 22:19
Good site Andy - I have been on there a few times,  especially when looking for parts for the Mig - in fact I bought my empty argon bottle off of a guy on there.
 
Rockradio - where 'bouts in the country are you? I have an almost new (used twice - although it might have a couple of dents in the outer casing now, where I have stored stuff on top of it.) gasless 130 Mig in the back of my shed.
 
I remember taking the handle off of it a while ago to scavenge parts - I don't think they fitted what I wanted and as far as I remember I put it all back together again.
 
I couldn't get on with the damn thing, and havn't  ever used it in anger except when throwing it in the back of the shed...  I'd be happy with £40.00 for it, it cost me about £160  - problem is, it's heavy and I don't really want to go through the hassle of trying to post it..


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1995 LT35 2.4 Diesel
Camper conversion


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 23:12
If its a SIP could be the same as mine. If it is can take gas as well, never used gas cos my dog ate the pipe. Can't think why she was nick-named Puppychoo!!.

P.S. I thing rockradio is London ish according to the map, don't know if you get up that way.
Fair price either way, someone will buy it for sure.


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: mikebdomain
Date Posted: 16 Oct 08 at 07:46
Just had a glance at it through the rest of the junk in my shed it has got a thin pipe for the small gas bottles, so I presume it could take gas as well - and it's yellow, that's all I can tell at the moment

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1995 LT35 2.4 Diesel
Camper conversion


Posted By: madra
Date Posted: 15 Feb 09 at 15:17
Originally posted by mikebdomain mikebdomain wrote:

The floor....
 
<snip>



 
<snip>

 
That's the floor done - bring it on...
 


nice work!  i've got a similar job to do myself on mine - floor rusted through just inside the wheel arches on both sides.

how did you go about getting the edges of your welded in panels to match up with the edges of the hole you cut out - given that the floor panels are kind of corrugated?

BTW - does anyone know the purpose of that sort of tubular A-shaped frame against the wall of the van [just above the wheel arch in the bottom pic above]?  it's only present on one side of the van and sits about an inch proud of the rest of the interior framework/ribbing.  i'm just wondering what to do about it when the time comes to board out my van, as it'll make things a bit awkward. 

is it doing anything structural? - i presume so, but i cannae see what


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bollox


Posted By: mike38
Date Posted: 15 Feb 09 at 18:47
I think its where the spare wheel normally sits?

Mike


Posted By: mikebdomain
Date Posted: 04 Mar 09 at 13:26
Hi Madra
 
Sorry for taking so long to get back to you... I have been working every spare minute I have on the inside of the van ready for this years run to the sun... (I hope)
 
I cut out the complete section to the next flat piece then laid the panel over the top with about and 1 inch to spare then welded both sides top and bottom. Getting around the wheel are was a real pain and took a lot of patience...
 
Watch out when you cut out the panel as the diesel breather pipe runs along that side (the side shown in the pics above) and when cutting the pice out remember that you have the member supports underneath the floor, so careful you don't go too deep.
 
The tubular fram is for the spare tyre, I have cut mine out as I am going to put my spare underneath the van
 
The tubular


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1995 LT35 2.4 Diesel
Camper conversion


Posted By: madra
Date Posted: 04 Mar 09 at 13:45
cheers.  i havenae started welding mine yet.  still pissing about with sorting out the gearlinkage.  but i've since found that i've got some more rotted flooring, for a few feet right along the edge where it joins the wall.  so that's probably going to mean patching it with some L-sectioned steel

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bollox


Posted By: mikebdomain
Date Posted: 04 Mar 09 at 13:55
Same as mine was - I just bent the sheet to fit

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1995 LT35 2.4 Diesel
Camper conversion


Posted By: Swidda
Date Posted: 09 Mar 09 at 20:58
Hi lads, Interesting thread, I'll be starting work on mine pretty soon, It's exceptionally sound considering its 30 years old and the only rot is in the steps at the bottom of the doors on the inside on both the driver and passenger side, and they are only rotten on the surface if the step and not up the wheel arches, has anyone replaced these and are there replacement panels available? Any tips would be appreciated.....
 
Cheers
 
Steve


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 10 Mar 09 at 11:32
Check out my post in useful links for panels they may be able to help, although I don't think I'd bother if its not visible from the outside.
My old bus has had the drivers side repaired but passenger is still solid.


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: Swidda
Date Posted: 12 Mar 09 at 13:26
Your probably right, my main concern is to stop it spreading, I may just grind the rust off, red oxide it and cut some rifled aluminum plates for the step


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 12 Mar 09 at 13:35
Best stuff I know for rust is Dinitrol, I've used it for years and have never had rust come back.
It turns rust into an inert compound so you can grind,weld etc once its treated.
Must be kept dry for 24 hours to cure which is no problem since you are working inside.


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: Swidda
Date Posted: 12 Mar 09 at 23:47
Cheers! I'll keep an eye out for that one...
 
Steve.


Posted By: Jam-Man
Date Posted: 19 Aug 09 at 14:15
Repair panels certainly were available a few years ago as I bought the lower panels including steps all the way round for my 79 van. They were made by Hadrian and I got them from my local trade parts supplier. Don't know if they are still available though.


Posted By: funky_monkey
Date Posted: 08 Mar 10 at 22:35

great posts guys, I`m buying a welder this week, I need to replace wish bone bushes and the pins need welding back after. I was goin to seal the under side too but I supose it`s best to wait to summer for it to be dry. 



Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 28 Oct 10 at 22:26
Been working on my T3 today, found a lovely patch of filler about an inch thick.
Not hiding anything of course.



No rust treatment, some **** had just filled over it. So it had to go!!.



Made a new plate.



Welded it in.



Tried out gas with my Mig for the first time in anger, and its not bad once you get the flow right.
Too high and it blows the weld through, too low and it spits like a cat with its tail caught in the vac.

Found a formula on another forum:- wire diameter * 10 + 2 and tried it.
0.6mm * 10 + 2 = 8 for the gas flow and it works.

Quick sqeeze on the trigger even puts fires out too!!.

Gonna get the air chisel on the rest of the filler on the wheel arch tomorrow and see what's left, before I tidy up the bottom part of the welding.
A new panel is a last resort, cos I got some from Schofields and Justkampers with the T3 when I bought it and I'm not happy with the quality.






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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: mat_the_cat
Date Posted: 29 Oct 10 at 10:58
I notice you're using galvanised sheet (as I do too). Just be careful of the fumes if you are in an enclosed area as they are poisonous. I've felt quite rough after long periods of time welding - didn't know what it was at the time until someone pointed out to me afterwards.

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Mid engined, 6 cylinder, turbocharged 2 seater - it can only be a VW LT!


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 29 Apr 11 at 16:30
Hi Folks,

Bought a new widget from Frost a couple of months ago and have been trying it out since.
Basically you drill a 3.2mm hole through both repair sections as if you were pop riveting and then push the widget through the hole and that's it.

Works a treat when you are trying to fabricate a new section and might need to remove it several times. Can't recommend it enough but that's just my opinion, when welding in awkward places and you need an extra hand!!.



In this case the one clip held the whole panel in place (18psi clamp) whilst I welded it.

Loads of gimmicks out there but this one does work, waiting to see if I'm as lucky with the spot weld attachment for my arc welder.
Logic says not but I could be surprised.
Either way the arc welder will pay for itself making this jig...



Sort of a metal workmate, but if you sandwich a bit of pipe etc it allows you to make curved panels etc. Needs 3 m of angle iron, which costs new about £18.

Making one as soon as I get 4 wheels on my wagon.




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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: marsh365
Date Posted: 04 Jun 11 at 19:30
Hi all, does anyone have pix of inner sill area as mine are long gone?


Posted By: caveman_dick
Date Posted: 10 May 12 at 22:50
Has anyone done the footwells on their van? Mine have just failed my MOT and was wondering whether to give it a go myself. Good thing with them is they are out of sight so if I screw up the seams it don't matter! Big smile


Posted By: PhilJ
Date Posted: 12 May 12 at 09:54

Recently the ramp hinges broke on a Mercedes Sprinter horsebox we've got. I borrowed a gas-less MIG to make up the new ones.
It was AWSOME! It uses special wire which releases the gas at the point of the weld - What I was welding to was crap, corroded steel which wasn't cleaned up that well and it was windy but this thing wasn't bothered at all. You can use it with a gas bottle and normal wire too but the gas-less wire was great and I would highly recommend it. 
Want one! Just need to justify it to the missus, unfortunately she doesn't need any welding done in the forseeable future so have no excuse.
A couple of pics - you can see my LT in the back!




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Phil J - VW LT 35 2.4 D 1989 Camper


Posted By: foden01
Date Posted: 22 May 12 at 08:02
Mike is that a new wing ,if so where did you get it from ,ive tried cant find one cheers mark 

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life is for living in a vw


Posted By: lorryloader
Date Posted: 04 Oct 12 at 12:42
Hi all,and fantastic job mike, have looked like you on several occaisions ! Seems like LT,s were designed to hold mud and water in the side skirts ! Any one else doing major welding repairs try these suppliers of replacement panels autopanel@btconnect.com   seekpart24.com           and  Imperial crash repair parts in Doncaster tel: -01302-304000 and please do let me know how you got on as will have to do a proper job on my 45 and 55 at some stage ! (excuse me if these have been mentioned before and can no longer supply) plus clevelandpanels.com   (01642-219200) and possibly
carz2.co.uk (01684-565883)


Posted By: asiormax
Date Posted: 05 Oct 13 at 20:08
Hi There

I can supply lower body panels for VW LT Mk1
Here is link to my gallery:
http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/Arek_Strzelecki/slideshow/VW%20LT%20BODY%20PANELS" rel="nofollow - http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/Arek_Strzelecki/slideshow/VW%20LT%20BODY%20PANELS
Pm me for quote

Cheers
Arek



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VW LT28 2,4TD SVEN HEDIN WESTFALIA



Posted By: lorryloader
Date Posted: 06 Oct 13 at 10:02
Great  news to all thanks.Clap

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LT-45 HIGH TOP + LT-55-BEVERTAIL.Mercedes Atego tilt n slide with lorry loader crane.


Posted By: asiormax
Date Posted: 08 Dec 13 at 17:29
Here link to Alexa blog she was first to use my panels and very happy

http://weldingwarrior.blogspot.co.uk/" rel="nofollow - http://weldingwarrior.blogspot.co.uk/


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VW LT28 2,4TD SVEN HEDIN WESTFALIA



Posted By: melb
Date Posted: 20 Feb 14 at 07:48
Hi Arek Im looking for vw lt mk1 front lower inner door sills, ive seen your bucketphotos and they are listed......Are they in stock?   Regards, Mel


Posted By: asiormax
Date Posted: 22 Feb 14 at 17:52
Hi Mel

I have this one in my garage



This is for left doors

Just drop me message if you need any parts

Regards

Arek



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VW LT28 2,4TD SVEN HEDIN WESTFALIA



Posted By: melb
Date Posted: 22 Feb 14 at 17:58
Hi arek, Yes that looks like what i need, are they handed?  i.e o/s and n/s or are both sides the same?  Regards, Mel


Posted By: asiormax
Date Posted: 22 Feb 14 at 19:13
this part is for left door ready to post.
£20 posted


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VW LT28 2,4TD SVEN HEDIN WESTFALIA



Posted By: melb
Date Posted: 22 Feb 14 at 19:20
Hi Is that off side or near side?   Thankyou. Mel


Posted By: asiormax
Date Posted: 22 Feb 14 at 19:42
passenger side for right hand drive van


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VW LT28 2,4TD SVEN HEDIN WESTFALIA



Posted By: melb
Date Posted: 22 Feb 14 at 20:29
cool arek, that is what i need, how do i pay you? and would you possibly have the drivers side in the future? many thanks, mel.


Posted By: Mattybev81
Date Posted: 05 Nov 15 at 16:01
hi dee hi campers anyone know were i can get hold of a drivers side step mines rusted  i think if i stand on it any more it might go throughOuch
and if there is any there is any panels for round wiper arms got a few puddles in foot wells Shocked


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 05 Nov 15 at 16:17
PM Arek he has fronts and drivers steps.Ermm

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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: Mattybev81
Date Posted: 05 Nov 15 at 19:35
will do Smile looks like i am going to need a few more bits off him will be pulling me  fixtures n fixing this wknd 
will take pics  and post em up


Posted By: Mattybev81
Date Posted: 10 Feb 16 at 21:38
Can anyone shed any light on replacing section behind the front panel where the wiper arms are here is a link to someone who has fabricated his own on a Florida lt can you buy them or am I going to have to get fabricating with on experience haha

http://westfaliasparesuk.com/lt-florida-1990-restoration/

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One day Rodney we will be millionaires


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 11 Feb 16 at 00:14
Link didn't work but PM Asiormax he may be able to help.


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: Mattybev81
Date Posted: 11 Feb 16 at 16:34
Will do I have his email bought a few panels off him b4 👍🏻

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One day Rodney we will be millionaires


Posted By: Uberhare
Date Posted: 10 Aug 18 at 16:04
Anyone heard of Blic body panels?  I'm wonder what the quality is like:  https://m.motointegrator.de/artikel/1270577-frontscheibenrahmen-blic-6505-03-9560320p" rel="nofollow - https://m.motointegrator.de/artikel/1270577-frontscheibenrahmen-blic-6505-03-9560320p

Arek doesn't have any of the front panels left.   




Posted By: Mattybev81
Date Posted: 13 Aug 18 at 15:39
Look ok to me pal

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One day Rodney we will be millionaires



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