In an attempt to try and quell the amount of phone calls I keep receiving about the short shift modification I thought I would write a FAQ so people can understand what's going on and how to do it.
I used to modify old T3 gear levers for short shifting, but it involved welding, cutting and drilling the gearlever, not rocket science but out of the realms of most DIYer.
It wasn't long before short shift kits came on the market and they made the job a simple, quick, easy operation taking around 15 minutes to fit.
Once I bought a T4 I was a bit disappointed about the shifting, nothing like what I was used to so it went on the ramp, I had a look, had a look at ETKA to see how it worked, took some bits off, drilled a hole, put it back together, bingo!
It's only when people drove my van they commented on it and asked for theirs doing.
You must be aware that there are 2 types of gear linkage set up.
The earlier style is fitted on all 4 cylinder models and the 2.4D
The later style (which was revised in 2000) was used on 2.5TDI and VR6 models, and obviously came in around 1996 when the 2.5TDI did.
The same principles apply to modifying the linkage, there are just 2 slightly different ways of achieving the same result on the different set ups.
I will confess that I have not modified the earlier system personally, but I will show you the principle and then give you a few pointers from good old brick-yard user “Elvis” who has come up with a good method, but like I say, i've not done it personally.
Early style - 1991 to 2003
The parts we are interested in are the "Relay lever" marked in Orange.
As you can see, this converts a Forward motion on the Blue rod to a rearward motion on the opersite end of the relay lever.
I have marked the ball joint to the end of the lever with red, the idea is to fit another ball joint further inboard of the original to mess about with the leverage of the rod, the effect is that you reduce the amount of movement you need at the gearstick to achieve the same amount of movement at the gearbox end.
I am told, and this is open to verification that you can buy a ball joint from VW (Part No. 701 827 439 B) drill the relay lever and fit the ball joint further inwards. I'm not sure of dimensions but I would say 30mm further in should do it. The balljoint costs about £2.50.
Later style - TDI and VR6 engines.
This one is simple!
Same principle as the other, move the hole on the relay lever inwards!
You will need.
- 10mm spanner.
- 13mm spanner.
- drill with a 14mm bit.
Under van.
Unbolt the 10mm nut and 13mm bolt through the bottom of the gearlever.
Unbolt the relay lever (Orange)
Remove the bush from the end of the relay lever that was connected to the rod from the gearlever.
Find the hole centre, mark 35mm further inwards.
Drill to 14mm.
Refit bush.
Replace relay lever!
That's it!
Soooooooo easy.
Great time to replace the bushes, they are usually sloppy, we have spares on the shelf as we use a few of them, due to popularity of these at the moment I have put them together into kits, I'll upload those to the webshop shortly.
Here is a customers van we did recently, you can clearly see the old hole! (2.5TDI)
Either of the methods above will only shorten the throw in the forward-Aft plane and will not affect left to right movement.
If you increase the distance between the hole centres the shift will become shorter! I wouldn't go more than 35mm though, reduce the distance and the shift will become longer.
Now, please stop ringing me unless you want me to do yours!!
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