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T3 Doka "project"

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Topic: T3 Doka "project"
Posted By: Lits
Subject: T3 Doka "project"
Date Posted: 05 Oct 10 at 21:13
It doesn't look like it needs that much doing to it! LOL





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Don't start what you can't finish!



Replies:
Posted By: crewpad
Date Posted: 05 Oct 10 at 21:38
nice dude.....

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chips dips chains n whips....


Posted By: Sunny Jim
Date Posted: 05 Oct 10 at 22:16
Nice Wheels.
What you got planned for it ?


Posted By: kooldubs
Date Posted: 06 Oct 10 at 15:45
eat the rust by the looks of it...

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86 t3 doka & 2001 T4 2.5 TDI
07752280999...


Posted By: rowlesy
Date Posted: 06 Oct 10 at 17:18
seen worse on the road! soon be right!

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UberFukz broke another!       sucky sucky five dollah!

always out numbered never out gunned!    RWS welding 07846 380 467 (worcs)


Posted By: Zebedee
Date Posted: 06 Oct 10 at 17:26
Looks a nice doka.

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Posted By: ianboydsnr
Date Posted: 06 Oct 10 at 19:41
Originally posted by Zebedee Zebedee wrote:

Looks a nice doka.
 
its fab, wish I had a reason to own one, a syncro doka would be the ultimate LOL


Posted By: kooldubs
Date Posted: 06 Oct 10 at 20:02
them wheels are south african pepper posts in they
 good luck with what ever you decide to do with your new toy chap...mines been cut to pieces at the moment...


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86 t3 doka & 2001 T4 2.5 TDI
07752280999...


Posted By: Syncost Alot.
Date Posted: 06 Oct 10 at 20:08
There is always a reason for a Doka.
 
From that one pic it looks like a ton of work to me though! Get stuck in!! Thumbs Up


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Founder member of the "WESTERN FRONT VOLKSWAGEN KLUB".......membership no 0001


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 06 Oct 10 at 21:17
Originally posted by Sunny Jim Sunny Jim wrote:

Nice Wheels.
What you got planned for it ?


Bought it to help my brother with his extension, (get loads on the back), thought it would be a nice cheap-ish run about LOL.
Also i fancied having a go at spraying and A BIT of bodywork, now the extension is second on the list Embarrassed.

Was just going to get rid of some rust and paint it, but having been on this forum everyone else puts so much into their T3's i am going to have to put a bit of effort in Wink.




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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 06 Oct 10 at 21:28
Originally posted by kooldubs kooldubs wrote:

them wheels are south african pepper posts in they
 good luck with what ever you decide to do with your new toy chap...mines been cut to pieces at the moment...

They are pepper pots made by Atiwe, i think they were an option in this country but could be wrong (usually am).

I am missing a centre cap, and have been looking on the web for one, if any body has or knows about any let me know. Smile

Thanks for your replies Thumbs Up will put something more interesting on later.




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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 11 Oct 10 at 21:51

Did a bit on van over weekend. Decided to do both rear wheel arches the off side one was beyond repair once i 'd ground through the "surface rust" LOL. The near side didn't appear to be as bad till i realised most of it was filler and fibreglass Cry.
So got replacement arches for both.




Roughly cut off old arch


After further grinding/cutting I was left with this hole! The corrosion caused by dirt and water building up that made its way down air vent and had not been cleaned out. Thumbs Down 

There was quite a bit of dirt and also something I didn't expect! LOL





I cleaned out all I could and made patches for holes, before welding in new arch.

 


New arch in Smile  Couple of dents that need a skim of filler on where I had to persuade panel in.
Not a perfect fit but when it cost less than £30 not bad at all.

 


Big smile


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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Syncost Alot.
Date Posted: 12 Oct 10 at 10:33
Show the love!!
Doka rears are always worse than first thought!!!

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Founder member of the "WESTERN FRONT VOLKSWAGEN KLUB".......membership no 0001


Posted By: Zebedee
Date Posted: 12 Oct 10 at 11:49
Nice work on the rear arch. Much better than filler and fibreglass. Wink

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Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 28 Oct 10 at 22:17

Not had a lot of time to work on the doka thought I'd sort bumpers as a small inbetween task, only a couple of rusty patches to sand and treat.






Not sure what colour to paint bumpers (or the T3 Wink)


Locker catch mounting not in good condition so rather than patch it, thought I' d grind it off and make another one. Confused










Previously been patched, too rusty to save. 





Its not going to be quite as easy as I originally thought Cry some more cutting and bending required.  The factory mounts are quite "contoured" at least the one on the drivers side is in good condition to copy from. 

Hopefully I'll post some pictures of finished mount when it's done. 



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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: BALDY3260
Date Posted: 29 Oct 10 at 09:56

nice work litsClap centre caps for the atiwe wheels still available frow vw £3.88 plus vatWink just ordered four for mine



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'95 T4 syncro multivan '08 fiat500(mrs b's)1968 eriba pan/familia (also mrs b's)


Posted By: Syncost Alot.
Date Posted: 29 Oct 10 at 09:57
Don't you just hate Dokas! LOL

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Founder member of the "WESTERN FRONT VOLKSWAGEN KLUB".......membership no 0001


Posted By: Zebedee
Date Posted: 29 Oct 10 at 10:29
One of my mates just got a new panel for the locker catch from his local vw main stealer.
They only had one in their warehouse from someone who ordered one years back and never collected and they are now obsolete from VW.


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Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 01 Nov 10 at 20:34
Originally posted by BALDY3260 BALDY3260 wrote:

nice work litsClap centre caps for the atiwe wheels still available frow vw £3.88 plus vatWink just ordered four for mine


Thanks, great tip on centre caps ordered 4 today Big smile never even thought about main dealers Embarrassed 


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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 17 May 11 at 22:04

Haven't put anything on for a while Embarrassed 

Last post was about the locker catch mount, i fabricated one but it looked shit so a bungee is 

keeping it shut till i come up with a better idea Confused

I ve nearly had it for a year and its still a million miles off but still using it to get to and from work 

and picking my son up, he loves going in it Big smile

Thought i'd do something with pick up bed, been repaired at front before but needed doing again.






Before the butchering!





Didn't have a spot weld drill but because ofthe size of the repair spot welds i don't think it would have helped!






Trusty grinder saved me again




Got a bit bored of grinding but interest of what was underneath kept me going LOL











All cross members in good condition, except the one that the front panel and rear panels sat on

3rd one from cab well and truly fooked!





needs new piece making, ordered some 40 x 40 x 2.5 box today.

(thinking about widening engine hatch, never know when you might need to drop something else in) Wink





All ready for cross member repairs and rust removal of seams from the inside Big smile






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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: ELVIS
Date Posted: 17 May 11 at 22:22
 If vikings were alive they would arrive in Dokas and do the raping in the back!
 
Good effort chap!


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Www.justgiving.com/ELVIS-SUMMERS



Posted By: Tee3
Date Posted: 17 May 11 at 22:27
"raping in the back"?

wont they get a shitty knob?


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YOU CANT EDUCATE PORK

http://www.tee3.co.uk/" rel="nofollow - http://www.tee3.co.uk/


Posted By: ELVIS
Date Posted: 17 May 11 at 23:04
 your so wrong on so many levels!

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Www.justgiving.com/ELVIS-SUMMERS



Posted By: rowlesy
Date Posted: 18 May 11 at 18:29
get yourself a nice velle hatch and surround! makes life easier!

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UberFukz broke another!       sucky sucky five dollah!

always out numbered never out gunned!    RWS welding 07846 380 467 (worcs)


Posted By: kooldubs
Date Posted: 18 May 11 at 19:01
got a wider hatch and lid here you can take out of a van for free if you want it..im doing the same to mine 
 
my doka is in a similar state as yours at the mo...but i have no top hats and we are replacing the 60 x 40mm box section that the gates hinge too, i must up load my pix to the thread i started...


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86 t3 doka & 2001 T4 2.5 TDI
07752280999...


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 22 May 11 at 22:05


Ha ha vikings, see what you mean the cross members are a bit long-boatesk! LOL


Thanks for offer kooldubs, I haven't decided what to do with engine hatch yet.


Think I am going to fabricate something but if not I ll PM you. Smile


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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 13 Jul 11 at 21:38


MOT Tomorrow Ermm

Adjusted hand brake before work and fitted front wheel bearings to both sides after!

Both were advisories last year! Embarrassed





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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 15 Jul 11 at 22:36


Passed MOT  Big smile

Only 2 advisories, slightly corroded N/S/R brake pipe, and rear wheel slight binding
(over enthusiastic hand brake adjustment) 

well pleased  Approve  can carry on with load bed and my continual battle with the rust! 




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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 17 Jul 11 at 21:18



I borrowed brake flaring tool "just in case" before mot and thought i might as well do advised n/s/r

brake pipe, i still had some rear stainless brake hoses from the kit which i used the fronts on last 

years mot. For a change all went well so i decided to do other rear pipe and hose.






There was even someone in at work to give me a bleed! saved me spraying brake fluid around the


inside of the van with my newly purchased ebay Eezibleed bleeding kit. Embarrassed






I didn't take any pictures of doing the front bearings all fairly straight forward no real dramas,

I used the mig to get the casings out don't know if anyone else uses this idea:






If you carefully run weld round casing it contracts it, they then just tap out really easily.

(I might be posting something obvious here but its something i ve done at work a few times) Smile






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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: max and caddy
Date Posted: 17 Jul 11 at 22:03
i do that on gearbox bearings at work, some times folk look at me like i have gone mental, works a treat. a real trade secret i reckon...well it was.


Posted By: jim painter
Date Posted: 19 Jul 11 at 18:19
I normally get a big washer or piece of steel and bridge the bearing hole so i dont have to tap around the edges. I just put a drift on said washer and tap it out.
Jim


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Jrp automotive welding, servicing and repair.
Cheshire
07854516387
Face book page. http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100002268471342


Posted By: max and caddy
Date Posted: 19 Jul 11 at 18:41
Originally posted by jim painter jim painter wrote:

I normally get a big washer or piece of steel and bridge the bearing hole so i dont have to tap around the edges. I just put a drift on said washer and tap it out.
Jim
 
but on a gearbox the holes are often blind so you cant get behind the race, there are tools for pulling bearings out of these hole but the mig is quicker and never fails, not much use if you want to shim the bearing and put it back tho of course!


Posted By: ..lee..
Date Posted: 20 Jul 11 at 09:05
Using a welder to loosen bearing races should be a last resort. You can ovalize the bearing carrier / hub. Check for ovality with an internal micrometer before refit.

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it`s a big round cage but there`s too many animals in it for my liking.to address this ring lee on 07977 765818.


Posted By: jim painter
Date Posted: 20 Jul 11 at 18:08
I used to have a blind bearing puller when i did a lot on the bikes but i sold it as i didnt have a lot of use for it. It was a cracking tool though.

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Jrp automotive welding, servicing and repair.
Cheshire
07854516387
Face book page. http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100002268471342


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 09 Jun 13 at 22:35



 I haven't posted for ages but I am still using the doka everyday, its only let me down once
 (that's it not starting tomorrow!Embarrassed) and that was due to a frozen accelerator cable!

I decided to grind/cut this previous repair as there was rust coming through around the edges.




What a task removing pieces like this is Cry













I decided to use a piece of galv sheet which was destined for bed replacement but was partially robbed for another job.





Drilled plate to plug weld to back of pick up. 






Thought I'd replace the damaged cross member too. 


Have more pics to put on, hoping to get more done in coming months! Smile















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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 13 Jun 13 at 21:37


 Once I'd cut the previous repair to the bed/load area bulkhead off and then started to remove

any rust underneath, it became apparent that I was going to have to cut the lip which the drop 

sides butt against, as it was very crusty! The lip joined the rain channel? from the roof as well. I 

wasn't sure how to get round this because cutting back the lip also left the c pillar panel open 

down its edge  (circled below).







 
In the end I decided to make a frame from the 40 x 40 box which I got to repair the bed cross 

members. It meant that the drop sides had something  to close up to, was fairly strong, and

could easily weld the c pillar to it.

  





Once I'd welded where I wanted I ran some seam sealant along all the edges to make sure it was 

all water tight.







I've decided to cover the load bed with aluminium chequer plate. Just need to figure out how I am 

to attach it (and keep it water tight).





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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 13 Jun 13 at 21:40

Why does the text I write only go half way across the page?  Confused




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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: rowlesy
Date Posted: 14 Jun 13 at 17:33
looks smart lits! hows about rivnuts for the ali floor and countersunk allen bolts to fix them down? you could put a blob of flexy sealer in each rivnut before you tightened it down? or rivet then seam sealer in the blind hole?
 
also hows about a nice roll-bar on top of that 40 x 40 box? make it look like its there for a reason then


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UberFukz broke another!       sucky sucky five dollah!

always out numbered never out gunned!    RWS welding 07846 380 467 (worcs)


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 07 Oct 14 at 23:05
Thread resurrection time, work has been on going on the doka. My progress on up dates has been hampered by computer and then laptop giving up the will to carry on! I just couldn't get with posting pics and typing on the tablet!









































This seams a long time ago, I decided to open up over the engine bay and have a removable bar above the engine itself,

I cut cross members out and started to remove the little bit of rust where cargo floor starts.
















































































The rust had formed where the panel sealer had cracked and let in water.

























































































































Wire brushed up and then krusted.








































Updating this and putting all these pictures is going to keep me out of mischief LOL

More to follow.















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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 08 Oct 14 at 21:22
I used 40 x 40 box  again for crossmembers and welded in 2 tapped plates to bolt brace above engine. This would give me something to attach the aluminium chequer plate engine cover to.








































Looks like there will be plenty of room to "work on engine" from above.








































Quick blast of undercoat.







































Because this is my daily drive I needed some way to keep water off the back till its covered with aluminium. So I decided to make a cover.


Used some light rectangular box to make frame,


 














which I covered with some reinforced fibreglass roof sheet removed from a due to be scrapped truck.









































Roof sheet had some aluminium corners and edging which I decided to reuse. 








































I shaped corners of frame to suit aluminium trim, put some braces in and some flat to sit inside and outside pick up sides.









































I painted it then rivited the roof sheet, which had been cut to size, on top through the aluminium edging and corners. 















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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 02 Nov 14 at 22:19
More body work pictures, 







































Can just see in bottom left corner metal quite pitted so cut small section out too.












































































Got a little corner panel, under coated back then drilled some holes in the end and on returning edges so I could plug weld it on.











































































Welded in place, it was quite a good fit Smile






































I then decided to sand the paint from further up the rear corner. As soon as I started sanding i realised there was quite a bit of filler from a previous repair. Doka must have been reversed into something on corner! Cry











































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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 04 Nov 14 at 22:10

Because damage was right on the corner it ended up being easier to cut section out and weld in another piece.








































cut and folded a piece.







































Not sure where my other pictures of welding fill in piece are, but the other corner needed attention too. 






































Tacked into place.






































Welded round.






































Found some more rust which had been fillered over.






































Sanded it all back and cut out section.












































































Cut a small piece of metal and put a step in it for where panels join and there's an edge.






































Then cut and folded section.






































Mainly making this up as I go along! LOL











































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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: jim potter
Date Posted: 05 Nov 14 at 07:25
Looks like you are making good progress, i'm dreading having to find somewhere to do mine properly.
 


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Full vcds ,vag tacho,
immo removal ( postal service avalible ), ecu remapping , spanners and a garage for anyone that wants any help, kettle always on.


Posted By: rowlesy
Date Posted: 05 Nov 14 at 08:36
she'll be mint when your done lits  Thumbs Up

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UberFukz broke another!       sucky sucky five dollah!

always out numbered never out gunned!    RWS welding 07846 380 467 (worcs)


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 05 Nov 14 at 21:54
Its not easy doing the body work Jim it all takes time and its not something I've done before so its a real learning curve, this forum has really helped me.

It would have been nice to buy original panels but cost comes into it and I want it to be a useable pick up not something that's too nice to abuse.

The area I've struggled in most is using the doka everyday so whatever I do has to be finished for the drive home LOL. Its not the best way to do it, driving home with wet undercoat on the side of your vehicle!!!

I couldn't afford to pay someone to do it properly, I'am a big believer in you get what you pay for.

Its not going to be mint but hopefully less rusty! LOLWink 




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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 05 Nov 14 at 22:32
There was a small area of rust on the seam above the arch panel.






































It takes time making these small repair sections Angry






































Tacked in.






































The bottom of the arch above the jacking point wasn't 100% either the more I cut the more rust I found.Cry












































































I think a lot of this is caused by water getting down air vent then running down inside of arch. Vw designed a drain to let this water escape but so much dirt gets down the vent too that it ends up blocked and holds water and keeps the debris wet.






































Welded in some new metal as I thought it (kind of) was. Hopefully strengthen area up!






































Did a little return at the bottom of the arch to attach next panel to.
















































































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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: T3ADICT
Date Posted: 06 Nov 14 at 22:46

have you come up with a plan for the engine lid yet..
nice work by the way...

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WHY T3's.... because they are just so adictive, and having one just aint enough


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 09 Nov 14 at 20:48
Thanks T3ADICT, yes gone for aluminium chequer plate bolted down with m6 plated dome head bolts.

Drivers side also had its rust issues!

The pitted areas were quite thin, so out with the angle grinder!























































































































All welded up







































Replaced the small bottom corner panel again with new one






































needed minimal modification, just holes drilling in to weld it to arch.





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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 09 Nov 14 at 21:29
I wasn't happy with the arch on this side either, I had swapped it when I first got the doka. I got another arch as some of the surrounding areas needed sorting and I thought it would be easier to cut it back out to get to the rust.



 


















































































































The area below the air vent was in a bad state on this side too.














































































Welded up and painted with weld through primer.







































This is the new arch being tried in to see how the repair patch will go.







































Repair patch.

















































































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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 09 Nov 14 at 21:53
Once the arch and repair piece were welded in and the area below the vent/above jacking point sorted and painted too, I could modify the panel I got from schofields to suit pick up bodywork.




































































































































































































The bodywork was on going, but I had to start thinking about the engine Wink
 
I had rebuilt the carb with a brickwerks kit and it had run ok but never been great on fuel. It was a 1.9 DG and having seen how much it costs to rebuild these engines I decided to swap it for something newer before it let me down.








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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Alonline
Date Posted: 09 Nov 14 at 22:02
You must have good hands because what I have seen here could put some body guys to shame.


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 09 Nov 14 at 22:13
I started to look into how others had fit Golf engines into their T3's, most people use the diesel mounting bars, bellhousing, sump, oil pump etc. This gives a 55 degree installation in order to keep engine under rear lid on campers and vans but in pick ups and dokas there is more room under the load bed so the engine can be mounted upright. I know VW designed the diesels to fit like this but I don't like how it looked and having priced up some of the diesel bits I knew I could do it miles cheaper upright (or 15 degrees anyway).

I saw how sid on here and someone on samba vertically mounted a 1.8t so decided to use diesel bellhousing and a home made adaptor plate.

I just needed to work out how to make one. LOL




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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 09 Nov 14 at 22:34
Are you sticking with stock gearbox? If yes you may not need an adaptor at all.

Great work by the way.


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 10 Nov 14 at 21:12
 
Thanks for the ego massaging Alonline, I am pleased with how its going but its not perfect by a long way!Embarrassed I am lucky my boss lets me abuse all the resources at work! It makes it so much easier than struggling in the street.  LOL






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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 10 Nov 14 at 21:31
I am using the original 4 speed gearbox Fufflenarnia. 

Gearbox, then adaptor plate to rotate a diesel bellhousing  40 degrees round to give a 15 degree install.

I am going to cut up and use a spare petrol bellhousing to get the mounting holes and shaft location of the gearbox. 

 


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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 10 Nov 14 at 23:05
Can't you just use the petrol bell housing?


Posted By: T3ADICT
Date Posted: 11 Nov 14 at 06:44

im sure I have seen petrol bell housing adaptor plates so you would not need to go buy a diesel bell housing.



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WHY T3's.... because they are just so adictive, and having one just aint enough


Posted By: VWlewis
Date Posted: 11 Nov 14 at 13:26
Top job mate - your welding is so good you should replace the robots in Wolfsburg!  Clap

I have had some welding done on our Caravelle but I wonder what else is hiding there!



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Dr. T15 - Took test in a T2, drove a T1, T4, T5 and now run a T3 - and I am not Tee'd off


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 11 Nov 14 at 21:08
Thanks VWLewis Embarrassed


The boxer petrol bellhousing doesn't bolt to VW in-line 4 engine? I bought spare bellhousing to try that avenue but its come in handy for template.


I saw a picture of a cast adaptor plate to use petrol bellhousing on another forum, it looked smart but out of my budget! A piece of 10mm plate, butchered bellhousing and a few hours marking and drilling is more where this project is LOL




































































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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 11 Nov 14 at 21:22
I have a cad file of a inline housing if you want - I can pd it and you can print it onto 2 sheets of a3 or 4 of a4 and stock them together.


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 11 Nov 14 at 21:55
I was lucky enough to get the whole car with the AGG engine, it was an MOT failure rotten floor and suspension/steering felt like it was doing its own thing, especially on corners!!! But the engine was strong and seamed alright apart from water leak from somewhere on the side of block.

The engine looked a bit un-loved so I decided to clean it up and paint a few bits.























































































































While I had it on the stand I wanted to connect up the loom from the donor and get it to run on the stand. GaryD's fantastic info pack came into its own and that along with some documents on the central electric 2 fuse board and all wires connected to it, made the wiring fairly straight forward. Wink

I did have trouble with the immobilizer Angry the engine would run for only a few seconds, but after speaking to Jim Potter and then sending my ecu down to him for immobilizer removal, upon its return it fired first time and ran fine (although bloody loud with no exhaust!!!)



 


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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 11 Nov 14 at 22:16
Thanks for the offer Fufflenarnia, I have been without a laptop for several months so have only been on the yard on my phone and tablet which I couldn't get to grips with posting more than an odd comment. My flurry of recent posts (now laptop is operational) is more of a catch up to where I am now with the doka. The adapter plate is already made. Wink

Appreciate the offer, thats why I like this forum, lots of banter but people always try and help out Big smile




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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 11 Nov 14 at 22:47
With the engine running on the stand, I decided that it was worth doing a bit more with.
Everyone always says "do the cambelt whilst its out" so ordered cambelt kit and with engine having a known water leak (I thought from coolant flange) but to be sure got a head gasket kit too. 








































And it made it easier to clean and paint the block LOL

















































































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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Alonline
Date Posted: 12 Nov 14 at 09:53
Originally posted by Lits Lits wrote:

Thanks VWLewis Embarrassed


The boxer petrol bellhousing doesn't bolt to VW in-line 4 engine? I bought spare bellhousing to try that avenue but its come in handy for template.


I saw a picture of a cast adaptor plate to use petrol bellhousing on another forum, it looked smart but out of my budget! A piece of 10mm plate, butchered bellhousing and a few hours marking and drilling is more where this project is LOL








































Proper hand on engineering!Thumbs Up



























Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 12 Nov 14 at 21:24

Some more pictures of engine re-built and painted up.















































































New oil filter, fresh oil and new plugs. Ran it again on the stand to make sure I hadn't done anything silly with cambelt swap.  All ready for attaching to gearbox. LOL




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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 12 Nov 14 at 22:19
Back to the adaptor plate, I measured the centre hole in the sacrificial bellhousing then drilled a hole that size in the metal plate and marked the centre lines of this hole to help me when rotating it 40 degrees. I used a piece of round bar to keep the plate and bellhousing in line.

I marked and drilled through the first set of holes with the bellhousing in the "vertical" position, and also drew round outside edge - thats the black marker line. Then using my protractor LOL  I marked the centre line at 40 degrees and turned the bellhousing onto centre line. I repeated the drilling of the holes in new position and again drew round it.

The vertical set of holes are the bolts which hold the adaptor to the gearbox, any of these holes which fell within the rotated bellhousing position needed to be vee head bolts to make them flush fitting.
 
Also the there are 2 dowels on the gear box to help location, which are the middle holes.

The holes for the diesel bellhousing at 40 degrees had to be drilled and tapped m8.

The cut out is to allow for clearance of the big differential gear? Confused 

I shaped the outer edge of the adaptor with cutting, grinding and flapper disks.








































Overall it wasn't as complex as I thought it was going to be, but the addition of a 10mm plate inbetween gearbox and bellhousing meant I would have to modify the input shaft and the splined collar which joins input shaft and gearbox output shaft? 






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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: rowlesy
Date Posted: 13 Nov 14 at 17:32
yes mate by whatever thickness the adaptor plate is. or space behind the cluich if your starter doesnt reachout far enuf. 

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UberFukz broke another!       sucky sucky five dollah!

always out numbered never out gunned!    RWS welding 07846 380 467 (worcs)


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 13 Nov 14 at 20:51
Yes the input petrol input shaft needs shortening by 12ish mm to be used with the diesel bellhousing, I was hoping that would mean only a few mm off because of the adaptor thickness but it needs removing from the unsplined spigot end. The extra adaptor plate thickness needs adding to the splined end which goes into the gearbox.








































Shortened input shaft








































The splined joining collar also needed extending to make sure it stayed central on both shafts and didn't slip towards the gearbox shaft reducing how much of the splined part of the input shaft it was on. 
(I am confused after that statement and I did it!LOL) hopefully pics will make it clear.















































































10mm spacer turned and tigged onto collar. Not sure about spacer staying welded to hardened collar! Ermm








































This is the collar with its spacer attached and also the input shaft with its spacer screwed on.
I used a bolt cut down and drilled and tapped the 10mm spacer for the input shaft. I struggled finding the right bolt, in the end the closest I could find was m7 x 1 (that common size LOL)







































The input shaft has the collar slid on then it is screwed down onto the output shaft of the gear box down here:







































The input shaft is screwed down till the 2 shafts touch then with the splines lined up the collar is pushed down till the cipclip which holds it in position can be put back in its groove.





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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 13 Nov 14 at 21:46
Now I had all the bits/bolts etc to attach adaptor plate to gearbox, bellhousing to adaptor plate and engine to bellhousing I decided to go for taking engine out of doka. I knew it wouldn't be done in just a couple of days like when using all diesel bits because I'd have to fabricate some kind of mounts to allow for upright engine. And there is always some unforseen problems.

Old 1.9 DG 
















































































It wasn't bad at all disconnecting pipes, wiring and mounts. Only one bolt seized on engine mounting bar. Smile I did butcher the exhaust a bit but it was in a bad way.








































One hot tip is Jack T3 up high enough to get engine out easily.














































































Ha Ha there was no going back at this point! Ermm




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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 16 Nov 14 at 21:16
Next I stripped engine from the gearbox, drained all the gearbox oil and cleaned up the casing a bit.
Then I offered the adaptor plate to the gearbox and located it on the dowels.







































I made some locating dowels for the rotated bellhousing out of some 12mm bolts turned down.







































I used a new gasket and the m8 vee head bolts to bolt plate on. (I did use a couple of hex heads where bellhousing didn't cover).







































The bellhousing bolted up ok too, I used a new gasket on this side aswell. Before fitting the bellhousing I put a new shaft seal in.







































In theory this now means the engine will bolt up at 15 degrees.










































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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: max and caddy
Date Posted: 21 Nov 14 at 17:24
Good stuff...other than the oil drain plug no longer being at the bottom and as long as everthing is lined up perfect this is a good solution to use a standard box on a upright engine I reckon.


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 23 Nov 14 at 21:11
With the engine out I cleaned up the engine bay a bit removed a bit of surface rust, 







































2 bits that needed a little piece welding in.














































































I painted the bay in zinc phosphate black.





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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 23 Nov 14 at 21:25
I can't find the pictures of the bay painted Angry I'll keep searching.

My plan was to lift engine into the bay bolt it to the reinstalled gearbox, then decide how I was going to make the mounts. 

We do have an engine hoist somewhere but I went for a more scrapheap challenge approach LOL


















































































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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 23 Nov 14 at 21:41
Yes Max and caddy the drain plug is a bit of a compromise, I did think about drilling and tapping my own in the casing but then thought better of it. 

I'll jump the gearbox oil change at a later date or when the box explodes!!! 

But it is definitely a cost effective way to install an upright inline 4 (so far). Wink




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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: max and caddy
Date Posted: 26 Nov 14 at 18:36
Could always tip the truck up a bit..


Posted By: Zebedee
Date Posted: 27 Nov 14 at 12:18
Two wheels on one side on drive up ramps to tilt pickup 15 degrees so drain hole is at bottom.Wink

How come you made the adapter for between the gearbox and bellhosing instead of the bellhousing and engine?



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Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 30 Nov 14 at 20:33
I'll start doing some trig, work out the height I need to make my ramps!   

I thought making adaptor plate for gearbox/bellhousing was easier to do, especially in keeping the two bolt pattens lined up. Also a spacer for flywheel would have been required I presume? Or do you mean machine bellhousing down 10mm to allow for adaptor like the flipped audi gearbox conversions have been doing?



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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: koendd
Date Posted: 04 Dec 14 at 22:09
cracking job you're doing there!


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vw t3 1.6td


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 26 Mar 20 at 17:18

Only 5 years 4 months since last Post!!!




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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 26 Mar 20 at 20:20


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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 26 Mar 20 at 20:23

Fuck me, realised why I stopped putting pictures on Angry

There must be an easier alternative to photo bucket?




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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: booted
Date Posted: 04 May 20 at 17:36
photobuckets useless now they want to charge an arm and leg for anything useable


Posted By: rowlesy
Date Posted: 15 May 20 at 10:36
finished yet?



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UberFukz broke another!       sucky sucky five dollah!

always out numbered never out gunned!    RWS welding 07846 380 467 (worcs)


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 25 May 20 at 20:16


Are they ever finished? LOL




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Don't start what you can't finish!


Posted By: Lits
Date Posted: 25 May 20 at 20:19

I was hoping to go to the T3 bus meet as its the first year it hasn't clashed with VW festival at harewood House! But covid's fucked that up! Angry





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Don't start what you can't finish!



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