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AFN TDI install

Printed From: The Brick-yard
Category: T3 Section
Forum Name: T3 Engine Upgrades
Forum Description: Forum for tuned or alternative engines.
URL: http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=72735
Printed Date: 18 Apr 24 at 13:25
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Topic: AFN TDI install
Posted By: syncroandy
Subject: AFN TDI install
Date Posted: 31 Mar 12 at 09:07
Right, about time I put up a few pics I think. I've been working on it long enough and plan to have it finished within the fortnight in time for the 1st. syncro event of the year.

I originally started looking at upgrading my pickup to TDI a year ago, intending to do a vertical install using a Passat 3B engine complete with mounts, flywheel starter etc. I spent ages considering this, designed and mocked up an adapter plate, but then I had surgery last summer and couldn't lift anything for months so the project stalled. Came back to it last winter and decided to go 55-degree just to get the thing finished. I therefore used a block from a transverse install just to make the job more compatible with JX bits. The engine was fully stripped and rebuilt, with new bearings, lifters, nozzles etc.

I wanted to use as many unmodified original components as possible, eg. turbo, exhaust, flywheel etc. So my design decisions were based around that, and adapters fabricated as necessary.

I looked at using the hydro mounts, but ruled them out for several reasons. Firstly they take up a bit more space than the JX ones, and I was concerned about fitting them in without having to change more than I wanted. Secondly I wasn't confident of their suitability for a 55-degree install. I was concerned there would be more weight on the left-hand mount than it was designed for, which might cause premature failure. I would use the hydro mounts but only in an upright install.

A few pics showing the left-hand engine mount:







I used the compact alternator bracket, and found the JX dipstick fitted nicely, there is a spare M8 tapping on the pump bracket. There was a bit of a bodge here as the TDI dipstick hole is wider, so used I a small o-ring and some silicone to seal it. I may replace it with an extended TDI one if it becomes a problem:



The gearbox was rebuilt with new 1.88 2nd, Albins 1.08 3rd, 0.70 4th, TDI input shaft, clutch release shaft, bearings and lever. I made up an adapter plate to use the TDI starter, which is more readily available, cheaper and stronger than the JX one:





Next jobs are to tidy up the existing chargecooler plumbing, assemble engine/gearbox, put it back into the van, then finalise the air pipework and wiring. More pics to follow.


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'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

http://syncrosport.com" rel="nofollow - Syncrosport
Volkswagen Transporter, reloaded.



Replies:
Posted By: ninja.turtle007
Date Posted: 31 Mar 12 at 09:23
I'm looking forward to seeing it completed.



Posted By: jc_geddes
Date Posted: 31 Mar 12 at 09:38
Now that looks like a proper job - well impressed so far andy.

The compact alternator bracket - what is that off? and does it allow you to use PAS?




Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 31 Mar 12 at 09:50
Hi Tom, me too

The compact bracket was used on TD/TDI's without A/C, the PAS pump fits on under the water pump with some additional brackets, and a v-belt driven by a pulley which fits on top of the 'harmonic balancer' pulley on the end of the crank. I may retro-fit all this if I find a PAS rack for the pickup.

Edit. maybe I should add that the compact bracket needs a specfic alternator, different to the one used with the 'tensioner-style' bracket. Mine is off an AAZ, so has both D+ and W terminals, however my ECU is late and wants a DF connection on the alt, so it may throw a DTC. Time will tell..

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'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

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Posted By: Syncropaddy
Date Posted: 31 Mar 12 at 11:21
Andy

Are you using a dual mass flywheel for this application and which motor are you using?


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syncropaddy


I blame Tesco for the obesity issues we have in Ireland. I will be proved right.

1991 LHD Syncro Multivan TD
1993 RHD Syncro Van TD ..... the last RHD made


Posted By: Garyd
Date Posted: 31 Mar 12 at 11:53
Andy,
a great looking project. I hope you can complete it to your timescale.

Your point about the compact alternator bracket looks to be a direct parallel with the issue I had when fitting my AGG petrol engine. The engine I bought came with PAS & aircon and the alternator stuck up through the engine deck lid. The set up also ran both a flat belt and a V belt. I too had to change both the bracket and alternator and pulley to get a lower, single belt set up.

On your point about sealing the dipstick into the block. Again a parrallel. I used the bottom end of the AGG dipstick tube and eased out the internal diameter to take the JX tube. Do this before shortening the bigger tube. Then cut it off just above the flange which sits against the block and insert the JX tube through it. The JX dipstick will be a couple of mm higher than normal but one needs to confirm where the correct oil level reading should be anyway.

cheers

Garyd


Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 31 Mar 12 at 20:04
Syncropaddy - the block has an AHU engine number on it but is the same as an AFN, the other components are all off an AFN engine. I'm using an unmodified TDI single mass flywheel and VR6 clutch. There is the option of a dual-mass flywheel as fitted to the Mk3 Golf and 3A Passat with AFN, for those that want to go the dual-mass route.

Gary - thanks for that, I think the 'bushing' approach to the dipstick is better engineering, and I did consider it, but thought I'd try quick-and-dirty first to save time..

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'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

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Posted By: ..lee..
Date Posted: 31 Mar 12 at 22:37
i like that mounting.  can you breed them? Big smile


lee.


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it`s a big round cage but there`s too many animals in it for my liking.to address this ring lee on 07977 765818.


Posted By: russel at syncronutz
Date Posted: 02 Apr 12 at 18:35
I do like your starter adapter. Very nice.
And for anyone looking for T3  TDI loom setup Andy is definitely the person to speak to. I can vouch
for that.
Russel


Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 02 Apr 12 at 21:05
Thx. Russel, fingers crossed it works, should be spinning the motor in the next day or so. The fiddly bit of the lathe work was off-centering the socket for the TDI starter by ~1.1mm to allow for it having a 10-tooth sprocket vs. the 9-tooth JX one. I hope its strong enough, if I did another one I'd get a bigger bit of aluminium and put more meat around the studs. TBH the ones from Germany at ~50 euro's are OK value, it takes hours to make one by hand.

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'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

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Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 03 Apr 12 at 20:11
Update time, engine and gearbox have now got to know each other and are back in the van. Today I went for a bit of a drive and spent £124 on silicone hoses and bits of aluminium tube

Prior to this I fitted a homemade shit plate and Ebay TDI flywheel (£20) and VR6 clutch (£20), both these were excellent condition and I'm sure should give me long service.

Shit plate (sealed carefully with silicone both to engine and bellhousing to avoid water ingress):

Clutch:


I also did some work on the chargecooler water plumbing, and the vacuum feed for the N75 valve. I was never very impressed with the effectiveness of the Pace system, so replaced the pump with a Merc one, and I'm relocating the rad from where it used to be (low down) to as high as it'll go. I figure it may get better airflow, and won't get clogged with mud quite so quick... For the vacuum, instead of using the donor car spherical reservior, I figure I may as well use the Syncro's massive reservior underneath. I simply inserted a t-piece and run a length of hard vac line up to the N75 valve. As I'm not using EGR, the N18 will just have its nozzles capped off, but will remain plugged in to the harness to avoid any DTC's.



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'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

http://syncrosport.com" rel="nofollow - Syncrosport
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Posted By: ELVIS
Date Posted: 03 Apr 12 at 20:34
work of art andy!

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Www.justgiving.com/ELVIS-SUMMERS



Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 03 Apr 12 at 20:42
Aw shucks ! Forgot to mention the other thing was before fitting the vac pump I span up the oil pump with a power drill until I could feel a good resistance (actually the drill started to smell a bit..) also checking the oil pressure sender I have fitted with a DMM to see I had full pressure at the head.

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'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

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Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 04 Apr 12 at 21:47
Didn't start the engine today, too busy making pipes up from the parts I bought yesterday. Did use a few orig. pipes but couldn't have done it without silicone, shame as I don't really rate it.



A mock-up to show how they fit into the van, the chargecooler is in front of the L/H light cluster, the air filter is hanging above the L/H side of the engine bay (pickup so room to move it upward). Tried to take pics after fitting to engine, but you can't really see what's what.





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'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

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Posted By: timmythedog
Date Posted: 05 Apr 12 at 07:48
Andy, could you comment on the N75, and N18. Is it important to have the reservoir attached? I've got myself a little confused setting mine upEmbarrassed. Are they in theory actually the same valve as mine appear identical aside from having a black and a grey? I haven't plumbed in the reservoir. N75 is feeding ecu and plumbed into actuator and next to intake air temp sensor. Have I fucked up!?
 
Lovely looking work you've done. Makes me want to pull mine back out and start again.Smile


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Syncro doka td
T4 Multivan Generation, 151
89 Caravelle Exclusive 2.1
Caravelle GL AFN tdi
53 plate T4 Panel.888 special x factor.
88 DG Panel(uncut)
calypso Atlantic pop.


Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 05 Apr 12 at 17:46
Hi Timmy, I'm no expert but I'd assume the N75 needs the reservoir to operate correctly otherwise it wouldn't be there ? Maybe to respond to peak 'switching' demand from the ECU ? The N18 and AFN N75 do indeed appear to do exactly the same thing - modulate a vacuum - but maybe the characteristics of the diaphragm in the turbo and EGR system are sufficiently different to need different valves ? I'm only speculating.

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'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

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Posted By: jes*b
Date Posted: 06 Apr 12 at 19:04
Lovely to see knowledge and design come together. High calibre work Andy, looking forward to the master class at Shipston


Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 06 Apr 12 at 20:09
No pressure then ! I have a prior committment this weekend as well so will get bugger all done. Phoned the garage today to move the MOT to Weds so really I now have 2 days to get it on the road. Main things still to complete are bracket/linkage for the pedal sender, and fit the wiring, plus a few bits and bobs like refit drive shafts, repair and refit rear lighting harness. Really need to get engine started Monday latest so if any biggies there need sorting I've got a few days to resolve them. Last night I was under the van and spotted the vacuum pipe coming off the pump had a hole worn in it just where it passes under the firewall, so had to renew it. Fortunately I had enough bits robbed off cars in the scrapper to make a tidy job of it.

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'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

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Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 09 Apr 12 at 20:42
Well... the engine is reluctant to start. Much cranking resulting in just a hot starter. I primed the pump as best as I could beforehand using a mityvac on the outlet till I got fuel coming out. However theres a big bubble in the inlet pipe that isn't budging.

I have a possible issue with the fuel shutoff solenoid, the ECU doesn't seem to be opening it. If I apply 12v directly I can hear it click, however with the ECU connected and the ignition on, it appears not to operate. Check with a meter confirms no 12v getting to solenoid. If I disconnect the wire from the ECU however, I get a DTC so that confirms the wiring ECU-> solenoid is OK. Puzzled as to why ECU is not opening it. Any views welcomed.

So I tried cranking with the solenoid 'hot wired' open, still no difference. Another possibility is seizure of the vane lift pump. The pumps not run for a year, but it was left with diesel in, inlet/outlet pipes and full fuel filter attached.

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'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

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Posted By: max and caddy
Date Posted: 09 Apr 12 at 21:15
Heyup!! is the pump spitting diesel out the ruturn pipe when cranking? if yes lift pump is ok...if no its most likely just not primed up yet...
 
solenoid click test is non conclusive but most likely its ok...does your FAGCOM have a "final control diagnosis" or actuator test function? if so you can switch with the ecu to test the output..
 
got any easy start?


Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 09 Apr 12 at 21:44
Originally posted by max and caddy max and caddy wrote:

Heyup!! is the pump spitting diesel out the ruturn pipe when cranking? if yes lift pump is ok...if no its most likely just not primed up yet...


Now then chap. Can't see as I'm up front on the key, another pair of eyes would be good.

Quote
solenoid click test is non conclusive but most likely its ok...does your FAGCOM have a "final control diagnosis" or actuator test function? if so you can switch with the ecu to test the output..


Output tests in VCDS seem to do nowt for the cutoff solenoid. Bid of a headscratcher..
Quote
got any easy start?


Heh, just had a poke about in the workshop and found a vintage can.


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'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

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Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 10 Apr 12 at 08:59




TBH feel a bit of a numpty I didn't try this before bleating on here ! An essential item. Patched in a temp wire to the starter so I could spin it whilst squirting the EZ start.

Also confirmed the fuel shutoff solenoid is only opened by the ECU when it sees the engine cranking.

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'90 246 AFN

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Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 11 Apr 12 at 21:57
Finished the spannering today, having fitted prop and driveshafts, fabbed a bracket for the pedal sender, re-fitted exhaust including making a couple of new brackets. Yesterday whilst running the engine noticed a couple of issues that'll need attention, an air leak into the fuel inlet, and a bit of oil weeping out somewhere around the filter. Sadly the turbo does seem to be spitting out a small amount of oil at startup (noticed this before I fitted the exhaust) it remains to be seen how much of an issue this is. Tomorrow I'll chuck the harness on (temporary until I can do a tidy job) and try and sort the above issues. Engine now looks like this:


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'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

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Posted By: max and caddy
Date Posted: 11 Apr 12 at 23:30
Tidy...found what i thought was my rear main leaking is in fact the crank sender leaking...could be the same on yours as it seems to be in the same spot...maybe..
 
 
whens MOT day?


Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 12 Apr 12 at 07:54
Tomoz unless I phone to cancel..

Ordered a new fuel filter and thermo valve yesterday lunchtime from BW but it didn't ship so may have to get another from local motor factor as I suspect the o-ring, and if I'm messing with it to investigate the leak I may as well renew it.

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'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

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Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 13 Apr 12 at 18:55
Right, its all done, test driven, MOT'ed and taxed. The AFN makes a huge difference to the driveabiity of the Syncro. I'm shattered though, so will get an early night and drive down to the Shipston Syncro event early tomorrow instead of tonight. Be a much nicer drive as well.

Worked on the wiring till 11 last night, and got up at 5 this morning to finish it off and get the van back to a drivable state for the MOT which I put back to 3pm. The local place in Melling is very friendly, run by a young couple who happen to run a Bay.

Didn't really encounter any significant problems. Timing was well out unsurprisingly, resulting in clouds of white smoke, but this was quickly resolved by moving the pump toward the block pretty much as far as it'll go. Thanks to Ewen for advice on this. Air leak into fuel seems to have gone away, I just replaced the bit of hose on the end of the inlet pipe.

Chargecooler circuit was a bit slow to fill, took a few goes at topping up but once all airlocks had cleared the Merc pump seems to be working much better than the old VW coolant pump. I'll keep an eye on inlet air temps with VCDS.



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'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

http://syncrosport.com" rel="nofollow - Syncrosport
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Posted By: lloydy
Date Posted: 13 Apr 12 at 19:10
Congrats! Wish i could be at shipston to see it. have a good weekend.
Picking mine up on the 28th


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16" syncro multivan


Posted By: ninja.turtle007
Date Posted: 13 Apr 12 at 19:22
Well done Andy.

I know you Subaru is very quiet but how does the TDI compare?


Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 16 Apr 12 at 09:11
Right, back home now after the ~360miles round trip to Shipston, engine performed faultlessly though I still need to do the timing properly. Gearing seems fine for my needs, not too high so will accelerate and climb hills OK, but with enough headroom to woosh past trucks on the M-way.

Inlet air temps ranged from 30-40 celcius whilst cruising and including some full throttle overtaking on the M-way, which I think is very good. Will be a bit more on hot summers days, but should still be acceptable.

Really happy with overall smoothness and level of Syncro vibes. The main source of NVH is just the MT tyres which I have to accept. I didn't take any particular trouble with alignment, just bolted the engine/box in as normal and it's fine. Did check and re-grease the rear CVJ's.

There was a slight possibility that modifying the stock JX rubber mount position might compromise the engine mounting adversely, but I've not noticed any detrimental effects so far. TBH I can't see the point in bothering with the hydro mounts, the JX ones seem fine to me. The AFN seems much smoother than the old 1.6. Should be nicely balanced as injectors were all setup by a diesel specialist, and I fitted a new harmonic balancer (found a cheap NOS one at a show).


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'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

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Posted By: ewenmaclean
Date Posted: 16 Apr 12 at 16:28
Hi Andy,

this is great work - the engine mounts look excellent and the chargecooler setup - some serious thought's gone into all of this.

As far as the N75 vs N18 goes they are very slightly different internally in springs and dampers - I think the only difference is part number is the N75 has an A at the end - 1H0 906 627 for the N18, 1H0 906 627A for the N75. The N18 won't work as well and you won't get as much boost but is good as an emergency replacement. The reservoir and check valve aren't vital but I've read it's there so that if in some strange scenario you use the brakes heavily and then need the turbo to spool quickly it has a backup vacuum source - I left the original res ball on mine but haven't experimented with removing it.

Lee seems to have cleverly figured out how to reclock the turbo to vertical, but repositioning the actuator might be tricky with the AFN exhaust manifold. I do get a bit of oil past the seals on mine if it's been sat for a while, but it goes away once it starts boosting. You can get kits with 360 thrust bearings for the VNT15 - this is supposed to help keeping the shaft well balanced but I've not done that on mine. My oil consumption seems to be ok - the mod I had been playing with as I told you I think was retrofitting an anti-shudder valve since runaway is a bit of a worry if the turbo seals aren't doing their job properly on the compressor side, also with a PCV setup designed for a vertical install I'm still unclear on how much oil vapour is really going through the turbo.

Thanks for the pictures and update - hope all the remaining jobs get sorted out easily.

Ewen




Posted By: t'onion
Date Posted: 16 Apr 12 at 17:23
Cracking work Andy Clap
I had a look at Jed's the other weekend , sounded sweet as a nut ( well done Russel )
Fancy putting one into my LT ? Ouch


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LT28 Westfalia FloRida, 2.4 diesel

miserable fooker





Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 18 Apr 12 at 18:22
Cheers Mark ! Saw a nice 2.4TD intercooled in a local scrapper the other day in a Volvo estate, but I guess a 2.5TDI is the way to go for an LT ?

Right, done the timing properly now using VCDS, and set it to just toward the advanced side of the middle setting. The run to and from Shipston seemed to have used more fuel when I expected (running retarded), and on the way back I plugged in my Scanguage and was seeing typical fuel consumption of ~15 litres per hour cruising, which is not very good. I'm now seeing ~10-12, which is encouraging, but I've yet to work out any proper figures.

The Scanguage is a great bit of kit, it has trip computer capability a bit like the VW MFA, and you can also input fuel data when you fill-up, and get miles to empty, time to empty etc. For real-time data, you can display 4 parameters at once, eg. inlet air temp, throttle position, fuel consumption etc etc. To get the best from it you need a VSS, and that's next on my list, will pay a call to the scrapper tomorrow and see if they have any Mk2 Golf GTi clusters with the hall sender fitted.



A few notes on things I've mentioned before. The turbo seems not to have been seeping oil noticeably since the first run, I'd had it apart for cleaning, and suspect it needed to run for the seals to seat properly. No nasty oily smells or blue smoke anyway.

The oil leak on the pump side was from the breather pipe, I'd used the two-part one, and it was leaking at the o-ring, until I can get a better part I've just sealed it with silicone.

I do have some oil now on the block on the turbo side, I've not looked closely yet, but this is probably from the cam cover gasket. This engine had the cam cover with seal bonded to it, so I couldn't renew it. Any comments on this welcomed. Shall I just re-seal with silicone, or should I try and find a cover with separate seal, as I have a fresh seal that came in the Elring kit I bought ?

The tacho is over-reading by about 30%, but I'm using a solid alt pulley and want to try and find a clutched one of suitable diameter and offset. Will leave adjusting the tacho (screw on the back) until I've sorted the pulley. Although I'm using an AAZ alt (W and D+ connections), and the ECU is from a 99 Passat that had a DF connection on its alt, I'm not getting any DTC about the missing DF signal, which is nice.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention how nice it is to hear the turbo spooling up from tickover until it goes supersonic !

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'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

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Posted By: max and caddy
Date Posted: 18 Apr 12 at 18:31
All well and good but...when you taking me for a blast in the country in it?


Posted By: niko
Date Posted: 18 Apr 12 at 19:29
Agree about the turbo spooling up......

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1989 westy Joker now with TDi






Posted By: jed the spread
Date Posted: 18 Apr 12 at 21:27
Good work Andy Clap

Please give it a go with some A/Ts on Wink When I first took my Mrs out in ours she thought it was smoother than her dads Petrol Merc LOL

jed


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[URL=http://www.whatatool.com[/URL]

My real name is Jarrod Walsh my number is 07940177101 or email Jed@campervanCulture.com for enquiries.


Posted By: VW Nerd
Date Posted: 19 Apr 12 at 09:42
The std VW vss from the early golf speedo or T3 speedo does not send a true road speed to the ecu. In fact it will only show half of true road speed, but will get rid of associated fault code.

You can buy a new item from a guy in Germany, built for TDI conversion and fitting into the back of speedo.

The ecu is looking for 4 pulses per wheel revolution.


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Developing parts for the VW T3 TDI market Inc flipped audi gearbox install parts.

Tim Shettle
www.ultimate-engineering.co.uk
Bristol

Tel/txt 07810 320 464

AFN TDI Panel Van


Posted By: max and caddy
Date Posted: 19 Apr 12 at 11:03
Originally posted by VW Nerd VW Nerd wrote:

The std VW vss from golf/T3 does not send a true road speed to the ecu. In fact it will only show half of true road speed, but will get rid of associated fault code.

You can buy a new item from a guy in Germany, built for TDI conversion and fitting into the back of speedo.
but will it work the CCS?


Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 19 Apr 12 at 13:59
Tim, don't forget the Syncro speedo is 1000rev/km vs the 500rev/km of the 2WD, so I hope the normal hall sender may work. Watch this space.

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'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

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Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 19 Apr 12 at 20:59
Yep, fitted a Mk2 Golf 3-pin sender pn. 321 907 345 A, and TDI ECU seems happy with that. Vehicle speed seen by the ECU is a bit under the actual speed seen by GPS, but the ECU has a compensation factor which I'll have a play with. Next up will be CCS !

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'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

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Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 20 Apr 12 at 19:15
Right, CCS is done. A while back I'd found a NOS stalk off a Golf or summat which is near enough, had to trim a tiny bit off the cowl for clearance. Length is fine with the 'velle steering wheel.

Some headscratching was involved, as I'm using a 99 ECU, and early CCS stalk. The 99 CCS stalk has an additional switch position and one more pin. I found I had to common the 'spare' ECU connection onto one of the other ones to make the ECU see the CCS as being switched on. I can forward details if anyone needs them.

-------------
'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

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Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 27 Apr 12 at 21:19
Off to the BW open-day Sunday, so long as Baxters Iltis holds up some laning is in the offing, so I made these from 0.9mm galv steel to stop my nice new motor getting covered in shite:





(Edit: the exhaust isn't as close to the tinware as it looks in the pic.)

-------------
'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

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Volkswagen Transporter, reloaded.


Posted By: Vaniller
Date Posted: 01 May 12 at 21:41
Very nice looking engine, particularly like your mock up of the piping without the engine in the way.
Quick query on the dipstick. Mine has been drilled into the block and siliconed but is passing some oil. What options are there for a better fix? Thinking about tapping and brazing the tube to a hollow threaded pipe...then threadlock this in. Anyone tried this?

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Every job means my van is a bit more sorted....


Posted By: ..lee..
Date Posted: 01 May 12 at 22:57
not had problems with drilling the tdi dipstick and pressing the jx tube in to it. is this how yours is done.

andy thats a really neat job my engine gets bloody filthy without the guards.


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it`s a big round cage but there`s too many animals in it for my liking.to address this ring lee on 07977 765818.


Posted By: Vaniller
Date Posted: 02 May 12 at 11:21
[QUOTE=..lee..] not had problems with drilling the tdi dipstick and pressing the jx tube in to it. is this how yours is done.

andy thats a really neat job my engine gets bloody filthy without the guards.


Hi Lee, yes drilled and squeezed in. Then silicone over that. Not done by me though. Leaking a bit but can't tell if its a thimbleful or a cupful hence why I want to upgrade the junction. Perhaps stripping and re squeezing a new tube might be an option...

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Every job means my van is a bit more sorted....


Posted By: syncroandy
Date Posted: 02 May 12 at 12:36
Vaniller - FWIW my 'bodged' install with JX dipstick tube sealed with an o-ring and a bit of silicone is holding up OK so far.

Lee - thanks, but it did take me a whole day to make the two. The whole conversion would be very costly if I put a proper value on the time I've put in.

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'90 252 EJ25
'90 246 AFN

http://syncrosport.com" rel="nofollow - Syncrosport
Volkswagen Transporter, reloaded.


Posted By: timmythedog
Date Posted: 02 May 12 at 12:40
(for the time being) I have left the AFN tube in situ, cut it down, popped a JX holder on and used a JX dipstick, also cut down and remarked. Apart fom the lack of external access it is sealed and solid. Smile

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Syncro doka td
T4 Multivan Generation, 151
89 Caravelle Exclusive 2.1
Caravelle GL AFN tdi
53 plate T4 Panel.888 special x factor.
88 DG Panel(uncut)
calypso Atlantic pop.


Posted By: Vaniller
Date Posted: 02 May 12 at 19:47
Originally posted by timmythedog timmythedog wrote:

(for the time being) I have left the AFN tube in situ, cut it down, popped a JX holder on and used a JX dipstick, also cut down and remarked. Apart fom the lack of external access it is sealed and solid. Smile

Very simple, and now you say it very obvious. Does this cope with the engine being canted over?

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Every job means my van is a bit more sorted....


Posted By: lloydy
Date Posted: 02 May 12 at 20:17
I do like the engine tinware , should get myself in gear and paint mine up for when the van returns. That's presuming they will fit with the tdi engine??? Can't imagine why not.

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16" syncro multivan


Posted By: timmythedog
Date Posted: 02 May 12 at 21:04
Vaniller, yes it's virtually upright.
 
I like the tinware too. Still got a full set on the shelf, including the exhaust cover off my old Atlantic. Got a shiny stainless back box though so conflict of interest.Smile


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Syncro doka td
T4 Multivan Generation, 151
89 Caravelle Exclusive 2.1
Caravelle GL AFN tdi
53 plate T4 Panel.888 special x factor.
88 DG Panel(uncut)
calypso Atlantic pop.


Posted By: Vaniller
Date Posted: 09 May 12 at 22:34
Metal insert with o-ring (like on Golf engine) pushed into hole. Curly JX dipstick shortened and welded on. Hey presto, looks like the oil leak is sorted...

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Every job means my van is a bit more sorted....


Posted By: jed the spread
Date Posted: 21 May 12 at 17:07
Originally posted by syncroandy syncroandy wrote:

Off to the BW open-day Sunday, so long as Baxters Iltis holds up some laning is in the offing, so I made these from 0.9mm galv steel to stop my nice new motor getting covered in shite:





(Edit: the exhaust isn't as close to the tinware as it looks in the pic.)

That looks really neat, did you put the matting on the inside too?

jed


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[URL=http://www.whatatool.com[/URL]

My real name is Jarrod Walsh my number is 07940177101 or email Jed@campervanCulture.com for enquiries.


Posted By: jed the spread
Date Posted: 22 May 12 at 17:19
You inspired me to have a go at doing mine Andy. I had some checker plate laying around the place so used that and a door mat LOL

I have an early bash plate but late exhaust so had to cut it as I went along to make it fit. I only had time to do the RH side as I only had a spare couple of hours this afternoon but it does seem to be quieter.





jed




-------------
[URL=http://www.whatatool.com[/URL]

My real name is Jarrod Walsh my number is 07940177101 or email Jed@campervanCulture.com for enquiries.


Posted By: SouthAfrican Chris
Date Posted: 07 Apr 20 at 09:24
Hi Andy,
Looking back at your rebuild in 2012. What would you do differently. How did the engine perform and did the syncro gearbox  handle it well? Could  you please give us a feed back on your finding, driving the AFN conversation? 
Regards


Posted By: Offland
Date Posted: 01 Jul 20 at 09:07
Hi , i have T3 california with 1.6 td and my plan is replaced engine to 1.9 tdi . I buy VW Passat from 1999  with  afn engine.  Probably I need some different bracket of other things to conversion . My friend is mechanic but never swapped before.  Can someone have for sale parts for conversion  ? Electric wire will bu sorted with other friend.  I have only 3 week to replace 😔


Posted By: randolph57
Date Posted: 02 Jul 20 at 08:27
From memory the standard jx mounts will fit the VW sourced engine. You need to decide if you are using the jx exhaust manifold as you will need to re index the turbo and also source adaptor plates so you can use standard exhaust.( Tim at Ultimate engineering supplies these).
Other points to consider are which clutch - i used the solid golf flywheel and TDI clutch as i had a (modified standard gearbox) with no dramas but you may be using a flipped passat box?

There are many variables all documented on this site so you need to decide the route you are taking (usually cost based) and go from there. Ten more people can advise you.


Posted By: VW Nerd
Date Posted: 02 Jul 20 at 09:34
If you take your engine from the Passat B5 or Audi A4 you will need a special engine mount for the non turbo side of the engine block. The the in-line tdi engine block is different from the Golf tdi engine block What can be confusing is that these engines share the same engine codes 1Z, AHU, AFN etc, but they are totally different castings.

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Developing parts for the VW T3 TDI market Inc flipped audi gearbox install parts.

Tim Shettle
www.ultimate-engineering.co.uk
Bristol

Tel/txt 07810 320 464

AFN TDI Panel Van



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