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'89 LT28 MOT failure

Printed From: The Brick-yard
Category: LT, Crafter & Sprinter Section
Forum Name: LT, Crafter & Sprinter Tech
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URL: http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=74157
Printed Date: 29 Mar 24 at 02:31
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Topic: '89 LT28 MOT failure
Posted By: LTCamper89
Subject: '89 LT28 MOT failure
Date Posted: 30 May 12 at 15:50
I was not expecting a list of 17 items needing attention. YikesShocked

Garage man said that it was in quite good nick and he was expecting it to be worse, so that's alright then. He also raised his eyebrows at the fact that he believed that some things had not been picked up on the last MOT, since it had been used so little.

Major things are both rear drums have oil contamination, both front wheel bearings have slight play, and various bits of minor damage on the flexis.

'Drivers' seat not moving as it should' WRONG, pulling the bar instead of pushing it down. 

Well, I am now going to hit the net for parts and spend another few days getting dirty rather than playing in the sun.




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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....



Replies:
Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 31 May 12 at 12:59
Definitely not under an LT28 today, it is peeing down. I did manage to get the OSR drum off last night to check the damage. That was easy...no securing screw!

Cannot get a picture up but you get the idea, gooey.

Sorry if you have already read this.

Cannot even get on with research since I now have a burst pipe in the kitchen.

?Is it just me?


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 31 May 12 at 15:17
Brake parts should be easy enough to find, gsf etc would be my first point of call.
If you have problems finding the flexy hoses, measure up and contact brakes international, they were able to supply a discontinued hose for my old bus for about £8.


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 31 May 12 at 15:28
I have loads of hits for brake parts etc, TPS is a short bus ride away.

?Have you needed to replace the oilseal on the half-shaft end before? 

The other thing I noticed last night was that the back plate feels very flimsy. Trying to pull out the handbrake cable was moving the plate in a very unsatisfactory manner. I stopped before I broke something.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 31 May 12 at 15:53
Haven't done a seal but a back plate if you can find one is going to cost about £80 from VW.
You might be able to weld it but don't take any chances, if in doubt replace it.


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 11 Jun 12 at 12:36
After waiting and waiting I have just discovered that one back plate is obsolete and the other is on back order. Probably, according to the garage man Paul, it too will come back as obsolete. 

Seals and so on are still available for the present but the shrink ring is also alongside the dodo.

?Short of cutting through the shrink ring, does anyone have any ideas on getting them off?

I cannot get enough heat into it, fast enough, for it to drop off.




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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 11 Jun 12 at 14:36
Looks a twat of a job unless you have a press and a means of getting the new ring cherry hot (250-280c) before re-fitting. Big hammer and cold chisel to loosen the old one and then a puller and a home made plate to remove it and the bearing.
I'd either find another half shaft with a reasonable bearing or leave it to the engineers, shouldn't take long with the right tools.


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 25 Jun 12 at 12:57
Slowly getting there.

?Can any one tell me if the shrink collars are of a special steel?

Since they are obsolete I am having trouble getting a suitable answer to my dilemma.

I can get them fitted, IF I can get replacements.

Too good to give up on but I have missed a couple of Littl'uns competitions due to these seals needing replacing, and we have missed a couple of lovely days too.

HELP!!Cry


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: mat_the_cat
Date Posted: 25 Jun 12 at 13:23
I would think that it won't be any special steel, as the lack of control on heating it would tend to destroy any mechanical properties that an alloy steel would possess. Andy, are you meaning heat until it glows red? Steel starts glowing round about 600°C, although if dark you might be able to pick up a faint glow around 550°C.
I used to be able to judge temperatures fairly accurately from the colour (my background is in metallurgy) but out of practice now!


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Mid engined, 6 cylinder, turbocharged 2 seater - it can only be a VW LT!


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 25 Jun 12 at 13:32
Good old Haynes says 250-280C (482-536F) 

I have just opened the bearings I got last week and found a bearing, a large ORing, a small ORing and a steel collar. Typical, 'Bearing' does not mean' and other bits and pieces that we won't tell you about, so you can waste time and money'

?Or is it just me?

Anyway, I am off to check the size of the collar, since once again VAGCAT is down.

?Does anyone else have to create the same account every time they visit?

?Or is it just me?

Be back soon, I hope.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 25 Jun 12 at 15:24
It seems that the Bearing Kit includes a new shrink collar. The bearings' internal diameter is 44.95mm and the collar is 44.75mm.

The small ORing is also 45dia internal, and the seal fits the inner race of the bearing.

The large ORing fits the end of the axle but does not have the extra section, the use of which I know not, yet.

The part number of my kit is 'QWB1192' equivalent to  BK1192.

Feeling much more positive about this little project now.

I cannot get on immediately but I will get a proper look tomorrow.

After all, as Michelle has been telling me all day "You're getting on now'




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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 06 Jul 12 at 18:07
At last I have  managed to get somewhere wit the half-shaft seals, but not without incident.

I had ordered shoes (?How was I to know you get four in a box and not two?), bearing(kit), springs for aforementioned shoes from a supplier, W***part. It took almost ten days to get everything.

I had also ordered duplicates, where available, from VW. The branch I phoned neglected to inform me that I had been transferred to another. So a lovely chasing of wild geese via buses, the public transport kind, ensued yesterday. Four and a half hours wasted due to lack of information. Nice day out with Abi though.

I have had OS shaft in the house for ages but without bits, and a dildo which turned into a nightmare, I have just this afternoon started the job.

Firstly, the supplied bearings are one piece, same code 331761DD rather than, BB separate outer race.

Everything I have read or watched starts with the destruction of the collar and bearing. Bad design, when a cheap seal allows differential oil into the rear brakes when it packs in. A lot of grief for a couple of quid. I cannot tell if this job has been done before so cannot comment on longevity of the seal.

http://s1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/Chris-R-Batey/" rel="nofollow - http://s1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/Chris-R-Batey/

I set to work drilling the collar, centre drill, 3.5dia and then 5dia. A couple of blows with the cold chisel popped it open. It took a little levering to get it clear since it was still tight enough to resist finger pressure.

I tried to push the inner race and rollers off the shaft by using the seal carrier, in the absence of a thick enough chunk of metal. Failed. It felt more than the carrier could take, so I dismantled the cage and removed the rollers. Shame since if it was possible to save the bearing, I would have for something, somewhere.

The inner bearing was cut along the axis of the shaft as far as was practical, and then at an angle across the lower section. A couple of cold chisel attacks saw it fracture and slide off.

The small ORing sits beneath the inner race and on the spacer, which seems permanently fixed too.

I have decided to zap the crap off using electrolysis. One for the Ladies. It is remarkably effective. the crud on the surface after only a few minutes is substantial.

http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/nsaeta/electrolysis.html" rel="nofollow - http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/nsaeta/electrolysis.html

So far so good. Once one side is done I will do the other. Mandrels and long drifts to make yet though.

I wish I was clever enough to understand this though, I would do it at the week end. It would make heating those collars up a doddle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zw_SrGU2iYs&feature=relmfu" rel="nofollow - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zw_SrGU2iYs&feature=relmfu





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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 06 Jul 12 at 18:17
OOOH OOOH OOOH nearly forgot, my welder came yesterday. Plenty for it to do, and just as well, it has been my biggest outlay for a long time. I Promise to put some pictures in Ur Van......when it stops raining again.

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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 07 Jul 12 at 18:33
This morning I made up two mandrels, one for heating the bearing inner race and one to push the seal into place


After the success of the small progress on the OS half-shaft I took out the NS this afternoon. The shoes and springs seemed a lot fresher than the OS set. Still replacing them though. 

My big bugbear is the handbrake cables are corroded into the housing on the back plates, I suspect no grease on assembly, so I have two backplates each with five feet of cable attached. It will be tomorrows job to get them both bathed, in the hope of freeing the cable outers.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: readie
Date Posted: 07 Jul 12 at 21:35
HI there, andy here with an '88 lt35 - just seen your pics..what a hassle! was that just because of the shrink ring..was it damaged? I just replaced rear brake assembly with back plates, cylinders, shoes, the lot..just doing the handbrake now for the MOT next thurs. managed to get the rods from VW not that expensive - the prob i have is the intermediate lever and housing that's welded to chassis (that it lever rocks on) - and then i found a load of rust underneath air filter behind drivers seat..big hole now! goes on and on, and it's wet..v wet!


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 07 Jul 12 at 23:27
Hi Readie,

Not even the collar, just  the seal. Crap design, or may just be cost effective. 

More instalments to follow.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: readie
Date Posted: 08 Jul 12 at 07:59
which seal exactly? I have just taken both of my half shafts out to replace the flimsy rusty back plates and had to go carefully when it came to the seal, but i think it was a diff seal (oil/rubber seal that butts behind back plate), no where near the collar. Was it a cracked seal that allowed diff oil to get into the brakes..was that where the prob started?

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1988 LT35 140K 2.4dt


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 08 Jul 12 at 08:30
Yep that's the one, but the only way to replace it is by removing the difficult and more expensive bits further inboard. A pig.

I am doing a couple of heating experiments today. If I can get the bearing inner race to 100* then I will be happy to get those on. On top of the handbrake cables the heating of the collar is the biggest worry. I may need professional help for that. We will see.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: readie
Date Posted: 08 Jul 12 at 11:44
well i have just bought all the cables and rods in the last 2 months..either from vw or the local car parts place - not always straightforward as there are times when 2 alternative parts come up and then exact measurements are required! give me a call if you need to know more info Andy 07780 99 1330  
HOw is your intermediate lever and welded assembly underneath (where the handbrake lever rod comes down to) have had to renew mine..it's like gold dust having a welder/fabricator as a mate!!   


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1988 LT35 140K 2.4dt


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 08 Jul 12 at 12:46
Lunchtime update, and a bit of Tour watching, and MotoGP.

Heating experiments were unsuccessful, so I will be looking for a man with some gear, urgently. It is finding someone who is not going to use brute force.

Got the NS half-shaft apart, to find that the seal has not been seated properly, 4mm clearance in the carrier. Probably not serious but it does show that the NS has been done before. Photo will follow.

 Damned autofocus, beautiful shot of the gunky mess, not the gap at the back.

Readie: Apart from the cables being corroded into the back plates, which I am now thinking about leaving as is due to time, all is well with it.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 09 Jul 12 at 13:12
Bit the bullet and took my sparkly half-shafts to  http://home.btconnect.com/centreville/html/home.html#homeanchor" rel="nofollow - http://home.btconnect.com/centreville/html/home.html#homeanchor  to get bearings and collars on. I have travelled past them for nearly thirty years. Seem to know what they are up to with french filth DS, and more recently German makes too.

I will get them back tomorrow, so today I can get on with the brakes.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 11 Jul 12 at 12:40
Yesterday, nothing done, no brakes since you need the half-shaft seal carrier for the shoe springs. I did get the half-shafts back, and a nice job it looks. I gave the temperatures required and the collars had obviously been well heated.

Today it is raining again, but no time to waste. One and a half sides done.

Too wet, so a cuppa, and all done. You may remember that there was no drum fixing screw on the OS, well the NS head had snapped off and there was a threaded shaft in the hole. Drilled out and retapped both.

Time to start on the handbrake setting at the rear, and refilling with brake fluid.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 12 Jul 12 at 14:51
Guess what, that did not go according to plan.

Drums are now set as best as I can figure. Since the shoes are new and have not been used properly, I find they are rubbing too much to be free, but not close enough for an effective handbrake. Anyway, the little splitter on the rear axle casing would not let go of the brake lines, so another couple of hours on something I was not expecting.

I now need to do the front flexis, or more likely the whole of the front system, the way this is heading.

Coventry at the weekend is looking less likely, shame.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 12 Jul 12 at 16:53
Another unexpected event putting the kybosh on the weekend.

After heating the grease caps on the front and adjusting OS bearing, the NS when tightened so the wheel does not rotate, there is still rocking and knocking, when gripping at 12 and 6.

I suppose it must be something attached to the stub axle carrier. 

My first four wheeler with work to do, so all help appreciated.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 12 Jul 12 at 20:16
Get someone else to rock the wheel whilst you look behind.
Could be a ball joint/suspension joint.
Hopefully something obvious and cheap to fix.


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 13 Jul 12 at 22:12
AndyT, Checked where and how the knock was happening. Only when pulling at 6, so discerned that it appears to be the ?upper swivel joint"? Top of the stub axle casting.

?Is it worth doing upper and lower at the same time?

Haynes does not specify any special tools, but any suggestions, if it is not as described.

Nearly there......again.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 14 Jul 12 at 00:16
Haven't done the job mate but it looks straight forward.
I'd definitely do both unless the bottom looks new, and I'd check the other side as well.
Same mileage, same wear!!.

Chances are GSF etc will stock em and probably not too expensive.


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 14 Jul 12 at 00:22
Thanks AndyT, my thoughts exactly, in for a penny in for a pound.

I am trying to get to a good baseline on this, but it keeps moving.Angry


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: psion
Date Posted: 14 Jul 12 at 08:50
If you need any cables, I have some used and some new.
 
Good luck


Posted By: mat_the_cat
Date Posted: 16 Jul 12 at 09:59
I'd say doing both depends on the cause of failure - if it's from wear or dirt ingress from perished boots then yes, but if from damage to the boot then it doesn't mean the other one is in the same state.

There seems to be a few poor quality ball joints out there - One was replaced on mine just before I bought it in 2006 which failed the MOT after 3 years/20k miles. I replaced it with one from ECP and just MOT'd it again and got an advisory on the same ball joint. This one has only lasted 15k miles so by replacing OK parts you might be taking off something that had more life in it than the replacement!.

I've seen OE ones on eBay for about £40 which is twice the price but may be worth it if you're planning to keep the van. Splitting the joint was tricky as it was too big for both my ball joint splitters, so I had to improvise with a home made tool which fitted between the top and bottom BJs. I put an extra nut on the bottom BJ, and as I loosened that it pressed against the upper BJ and forced it out. Obviously no use if you're doing both!


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Mid engined, 6 cylinder, turbocharged 2 seater - it can only be a VW LT!


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 16 Jul 12 at 15:38
Matt, Just got back in after collecting the ball joints, four for 56 quid via GSF + 3.70 bus fare.

I am not going to get a chance to look now, rain is imminent, but will tomorrow. 

I understand your reasoning, and unfortunate experience. I am certainly going to do both NS, but am going to have a proper look at the OS pair first. MOT man said it was play in the wheel bearings on both sides, but that proved not to be the case for the NS.

I too will have to improvise, but having a lathe can be a real help.

I will be able to play with my new jacks too, a three ton trolley and a 48" farm jack, which will be fixed in the rear of the van  for roadside tyre removal. When I bougt it the vendor delivered it, but got a puncture, so collected me with a small scissor jack and some sockets etc. When we got back my jack was not tall enough, and there was not one in the van. Relying on the AA, not me thank you.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: volition82
Date Posted: 17 Jul 12 at 11:41
I've been following this with interest because i'm fairly sure my rear nearside needs doing.  It's getting hot and the wheel cyclinder is new so it can't really be anything else.  I looked in the haynes manual, I saw how difficult the job was and tried to forget about it LOL
 
Can I ask how much you paid for the wheel bearings and where you got them because my local motor factors says they are £78 + vat each side.  Seems a bit steep to me.


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1989 LT35 - 2.4 Lpg/Petrol - Converted To Camper


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 17 Jul 12 at 12:03
Afternoon Volition82,

The wheel bearing kits were  http://www.wanapart.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=8506018" rel="nofollow - http://www.wanapart.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=8506018

Centreville charged me 54 to fit the bearings and collars, total for both sides.

I have just done the removal of the front NS lower to discover I have been given the wrong bits. So that is me scuppered for the minute.I have just done the removal of the front NS lower to discover I have been given the wrong bits. 

http://s1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/Chris-R-Batey/1989%20LT28%20Lower%20ball%20Joint/

Photobucket seem intent on not allowing the edited image to be linked.

I have just done the removal of the front NS lower to discover I have been given the wrong bits. So that is me scuppered for the minute. Waiting now for call about when I can have the correct parts, and whether they will deliver them!!

Every single thing is a bliddy nightmare.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 17 Jul 12 at 14:19
We've all been there I think, pain in the wotsit.
Sometimes happens even if you quote part numbers from the item.
Still you are over half way there, just think of the dosh you are saving as opposed to paying a garage.


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 17 Jul 12 at 15:40
Originally posted by AndyT AndyT wrote:

We've all been there I think, pain in the wotsit.
Sometimes happens even if you quote part numbers from the item.
Still you are over half way there, just think of the dosh you are saving as opposed to paying a garage.

That, AndyT is the good bit, but a day of good fettling weather is irreplaceable.

Back on the phone since they have not called yet.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 17 Jul 12 at 16:44
Know what you mean but at least it's a job that can be done in crap weather. I need several dry days in a row to do the bodywork on my old bus.

Don't know if it's of any interest but I bought some waterproof overalls from machine mart, cost about £40 but are absolutely ace. Only complaint is that they can be too warm.
On warm days I wear ex-Mod gortex stuff, had it for 20+ years and it still keeps me dry.

One of my pet hates is bods who don't call you back so my sympathies there, hope you get it sorted.


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 17 Jul 12 at 17:12
After me calling, they are hoping to deliver tonight, the boss lives a few minutes from me. Here's hoping.

There is a place around the corner which took four hours to ring back, at which point I had already ordered the bits. Right or wrong decision, we will never know.

I do hate working in the rain. Trying to keep metal things dry whilst handling them. Do if I have to though, just like everyone else.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 17 Jul 12 at 19:15
Nice man from GSF delivered the correct LBJs, took another 15 quid. Apologised profusely, but the main thing is that they sorted out their mistake as quickly as they could.

Ordered some bleed nipples from BiggRed yesterday, got half an order this morning. They were going to make me wait an extra day, because "I had missed the post". Stuff that says I. The bleed nipples are going to be here tomorrow.

?Is it just me?


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 18 Jul 12 at 12:58
IT IS ME!!

The second part of my order from BiggRed turned up while under an LT28. NO DUST CAPS!!

I got onto the phone to them and I am getting them tomorrow, I suppose. I mentioned that each one had to be run through a die to get a fit in the calliper. This post  http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/caliper-bleed-nipples-size_topic73837.html?KW=bleed+nipple" rel="nofollow - http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/caliper-bleed-nipples-size_topic73837.html?KW=bleed+nipple  has the same trouble, but BiggRed new nothing of it. 

If something needs machining the supplier needs to know. Most of us will have the relevant tools/facilities, but not everyone has. It could have been another unnecessary ball-ache.

Nearly done again, photos and description will follow later.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 18 Jul 12 at 16:41
Apart from the aforementioned trials and tribulations that all went quite well. I have ended up replacing more brake lines than I really wanted to, but ?who uses steel lines these days?

Not surprising that I had to drill the LBJ nut off. The flats which are there to help tighten the nut are worse than useless when it comes to getting it undone. The replacements are likely to be worse, hexagon socket in the top. The replacement bolts for 45s were 65s with only 25 thread. No good whatsoever, with 3-4mm of shank showing through to prevent the nut gaining any purchase on the lower suspension arm. Rang GSF to thank them for yesterday, and to inform them of the error.

http://s1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/Chris-R-Batey/1989%20LT28%20Lower%20ball%20Joint/

Everything is back together now so I will be starting the 'bleeding' this evening, taking advantage of the sunshine.Big smile

The next job is the welding of a patch for this....NSF Wheelarch........


The wire hanging down is for the fog light, and the lighter coloured area visible through the chasm is the underside of the battery isolator, and to its' left, the frame of the passenger seat. The wire was already there when I got it, and the previous owner did not even know IF there was a jack, so I think it is unlikely to be his work. Since it had an MOT when he got it,?Where does that leave us? Me fixing it, that's where.

Off to practise welding now


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 18 Jul 12 at 20:06
That repair is going to get bigger for sure, at least there's a chance it will stay simple.
Don't know what VW changed with the underbody protection but older models seem better protected. All the rust I've found on my old bus has been around the wheel arches etc.


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 18 Jul 12 at 20:23
Pulled the seat out and took off the isolator, and began peeling the underseal, white. I have cut away about 8"x2" but I have also just run out of gas, so I may be arcing the repair. Oh joy. 

Brakes in the dry in the morning.

It is raining again, so cardboard engineering will have to wait. I will just hone my welding 'skills' with the washing machine carcass I salvaged. 


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: mat_the_cat
Date Posted: 19 Jul 12 at 09:41
I think the trouble with recent (as in 90s onwards) underbody protection is that it is almost too good. In the old days the coating would start to flake away where rust was present underneath (often after just a few years!), letting you see the rust to take action but also letting it dry out from time to time. Now the coating lasts much longer but when it does eventually let water in, it stays flexible and rust can travel a long way underneath it, never drying out. Until you get a big surprise.

Nice BJ separator - want to hire it out?!


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Mid engined, 6 cylinder, turbocharged 2 seater - it can only be a VW LT!


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 19 Jul 12 at 11:36
Thanks Mat, it did cross my mind. Hire is not really fair, yes I made it with my materials and time but I would prefer a trusting lend with a damage/loss waiver. Grief, that sounded almost legal. I can see a lot of things which I may make, front hub grease cap removal tool is just one more that comes to mind. I only needed it twice, but I was immediately thinking about next time.

?If anyone out there would like to borrow it, I have no problem with that at all?

There was a chap who hired out Guzzi tools in Durham. ?Anyone like that for VW tools?

A club type hire scheme would be really nice for those who have a van, cannot afford the garage bills really, and have no other access to the bits that cannot be bodged safely.

Been doing the brakes for two and a half hours now and no further forward. Sick. Lots of clean fluid, just a wet rag at the pedal.

Ordered gas and getting it tomorrow, sometime. May not make the MOT and Yeovil for Saturday after all. Double sick.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: volition82
Date Posted: 19 Jul 12 at 11:52
I replaced all my brakes just recently, I think they are a bit of a pain to bleed to be honest.  I did it the usual way of the furthest away and working forward but after the first go it still had a fairly soft pedal.  I put constant pressure on the pedal with the resevior cap off and left it overnight, the idea being that any air bubbles work there way up to the top.  It's an old motorbike trick, not sure how effective it is on cars/vans but it was worth ago.  This made the pedal a lot firmer but over time it has gone a bit soft so I re-bleed them last weekend.  This has made the pedal a lot firmer but they still aren't right, the o/s front caliper still has air in it, i'll have another go this weekend.
 
My brother used to work in a garage and he said some cars can be a complete b*****d to bleed and thats with the right equipment.  Rather than the old down, up method with an unwilling helperLOL


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1989 LT35 - 2.4 Lpg/Petrol - Converted To Camper


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 19 Jul 12 at 13:10
I have considered creating a vacuum over the m/c cap. I used this technique to clear air bubbles from Tensol70, a two part acrylic adhesive. Not quite sure how to do it at the minute, but the brains a tickin'.

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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: mat_the_cat
Date Posted: 19 Jul 12 at 16:00
Is it worth trying to purchase an Easy Bleed system which uses (reduced) tyre pressure to pressurise the brake fluid reservoir? I've misplaced mine so I didn't use it for the LT a few weeks ago when I replaced a front to rear line, but it makes the job so much easier and possible with just one person. (Although the easiest brakes to do solo, as you probably know, are those on a 'proper' Citroën using LHM where you just wedge a piece of wood between the steering wheel and the brake pedal, and then crack open each nipple in turn!)

EDIT - Yes! I've beaten the word filter which replaces Citroën (when you spell it with an e anstead of ë) with French filth.


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Mid engined, 6 cylinder, turbocharged 2 seater - it can only be a VW LT!


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 19 Jul 12 at 18:08
I have an EasyBleed, but I have just noticed that the first thing you do is introduce air into the reservoir.

Another two hours dodging backwards and forwards 'Under an LT" to no avail. No leaks so it is beginning to seem pointless.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 20 Jul 12 at 12:08
Another two hours trying to bleed the bleeding brakes. I almost managed to get the reservoir and tube clear of air before I started. Got better, then ended up worse again. Starting to run low on fluid again too now.

Good news, gas is now here, so will have a break from brakes, and see if I can get some welding practise in.

Nearly there again, but thank you to everyone who has contributed so far.




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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: mat_the_cat
Date Posted: 20 Jul 12 at 12:23
Every time I look at this thread I read it hoping to hear good news! Fingers crossed for next time I check in...

That beer will taste so good once you have a new MOT in your hands.

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Mid engined, 6 cylinder, turbocharged 2 seater - it can only be a VW LT!


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 20 Jul 12 at 12:43
The only good news is gas and 6Music at the moment Mat.

I am certainlyt not waiting for good news to have a beer.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 20 Jul 12 at 13:20
Ok, back to basics. Having a break from welding my T3 so got a few mins.

From what I've read you have had all the brakes apart and the rears are not seating right, or were not earlier.
First check for bubbles in the master cylinder, if it's been dry it can happen.

Clamp off the rears at the flexi hose, and bleed the fronts. This should bleed the master cylinder.
If fluid coming out is clear, chuck it back in for the time being, can't be worse than the old stuff.
Do you get a decent pedal.

If so unclamp the rears, what is the pedal like now.


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 20 Jul 12 at 13:38
Thanks for giving me a few minutes AndyT.

When you say 'clamp off at the flexi' I assume you mean the one between the load regulator and the rear axle.

Two bits of rod and two bolts to nip them together.

The fronts have been consistently clear.

If I could reuse the 'old' fluid I would, but I seem to be dropping/knocking over the jar at an alarming rate. Most of it has ended up on the drive.

Regarding the rears, I had to free off the automatic adjusters and when I refitted them I could not get the situation where the wheel turned and a little further started biting, and a little further held properly. I was putting this down to new shoes being a bit sharp on the uptake.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 20 Jul 12 at 14:10
Yup, the rest is solid pipe along the axle. You can use anything that works if you don't have the tool, just make sure it isn't sharp. Have used mole grips with padded jaws for example.
Since you haven't dismantled the pads etc at the front, nothing should have changed.
As you probably know there are 2 circuits, just trying to find out which one is the problem although I suspect the rear cos it's all new.


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 20 Jul 12 at 15:53
Just made a clamp.

I have had to replace the solid pipes on the rear axle, and the front ones from the union due to corrosion. The main ones running the length are copper.

Tried a bit of welding too now I have gas, ooer.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 20 Jul 12 at 18:15
Sorry mate, been busy fabricating and welding. Finished for today need munchies.

Pipes hold sod all fluid, it's the calipers and wheel cylinders so I don't think it's a pipe issue.
Anyway stick yer clamp on and bleed the front, try and save the fluid Embarrassed.
You won't get a perfect pedal cos of the air in the rear pipes but it should be half decent, and consistent. Hold the pedal down hard for 30secs, and if it don't move front is ok.

If the rear brake balance valve has a nipple bleed that.

Rears - Wind the shoes in as far as they go, to give the pistons something to push against.
Get a helper to pump the pedal 6 times and hold hard, crack the nipple. Repeat several times.
Same for the other side.

Wind shoes out, check brake pedal. You'll need to pump to push pistons out first.

If that don't work I can't think of anything else long distance.

Good luck!! (With your welding too)

Andy



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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 20 Jul 12 at 19:05
Job for tomorrow I think. Thanks again.

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=378561#post378561" rel="nofollow - http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=378561#post378561

Welding HA!


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 20 Jul 12 at 19:45
Oi!!, wots wrong with our welding topic!!Wink.
Nowt wrong with the link though, I get most of my stuff from there.

Halfrauds sell tips at a good price (packs of 5) if you have one local, cheaper than postage for small orders.
Think you might have to increase your gas flow (5% Argon), for 0.6mm mine is set at 8 cuft, not litres. Will let you do the maths. Basic formula is wire diameter * 10 + 2.


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 20 Jul 12 at 20:26
Thanks again AndyT, I had not considered them. Just had a look at their site. A bit of a pedal away because naturally it is in a Retail Park with difficult public transport connections.

Once I get some welding done, I may just post something there too.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 21 Jul 12 at 17:44
AndyT, the front was fine, rock hard. The rear is still the same. I did hear a little hiss from the master cylinder when pumping the pedal quickly. Everything you have said worked, or at least seemed to. The rear pistons are all free and moving, I could feel them when Littl'un was pumping the brakes. 

Since clamping the flexi at the back gave a solid pedal, this would indicate that the problem is between the left and right wheel cylinders. I took off the drums to make sure there were no leaks in either one, and to make sure the pistons were free.

Lost.

I have given up today, most disheartening. 


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 21 Jul 12 at 21:13
Pretty sure that you have said you have a 1 man bleeding kit.
Just run a tin of fluid though the rears and watch for bubbles in the jar.
Keep going until they stop.


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 22 Jul 12 at 00:11
I have had a thought, dangerous I know.

Since the fronts were rock solid when the flexi was clamped I will bleed the rear section downstream of the flexi. There must be some air which is somehow trapped. The flexi isolates all but 6' of pipe and two wheel cylinders. 

There's a plan!

Thanks for the offer AndyT, let's see if I can figure this out.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 22 Jul 12 at 00:34
How are you going to pressurise the pipe and get new fluid in?
Also the longest pipe is front to rear so there could be air in there.


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 22 Jul 12 at 08:10
I am going to check how good the fronts are again by clamping the flexi. If they are still, as yesterday, rock solid then I will leave the clamp in place. If there was any air in the long pipes it would affect the feeling at the pedal. ?Yes? I made up a little adapter last night which will allow me to bleed the wheel cylinders by pressure through the balance manifold, or through either wheel cylinder.

If my thinking is flawed, shout out.




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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 22 Jul 12 at 11:48
Air is the problem, unlike brake it fluid compresses.
Only 2 ways it can get in, either through the master cylinder seals or if you disconnect something or a seal leaks in the wheel cylinders etc.
Bubbles tend to accumulate in the highest spots which is why bleeding can be a pain.


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 26 Jul 12 at 18:46
No work over the weekend due to hayfever. I did not at all fancy nutting the chassis rails every two minutes. So I was hoping for better than another three hapless hours under the trusty steed to no avail. Again, I clamped the rear axle flexi to find the pedal rock solid. I still bled the balance valve and found bubbles, STILL, even though with the flexi clamped, the pedal was ace. Each nipple got a full bottle run through, at least three times today. I would like to say it is better, but by a tiny margin.

Now as AndyT says the pipes hold very little fluid, I was tapping the ones I could to help things along, and opening and closing the nipple to see if it allowed the bubbles to break free. 

?Any ideas, Oh fountains of LT knowledge? ...or is it just keep doing it until it is right. 

Small concerns about some of the bleed nipples seating properly are not helping. They are not leaking under the pressure available at the moment. The fluid is beginning to look mucky now, been through a dozen times nearly. I cannot find any leaks still.

On my own tomorrow too, so will try again, unless any of you have a Brakes Fairy you can send over.




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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 29 Jul 12 at 11:30
I had another thought yesterday night. ?Had I got the auto-adjusters in the correct drums? I had no reason to think not, but worth checking. They were fine so wound out them again and slipped on the drums. Got in through the adjusting hole to do them up tighter. Refill the 'not-so' EeziBleed, and back under to knock pipes and wait for bubbles. Lo and behold more bubbles! ?How they have stayed in the lines for so long and with so many litres of fluid gushing by, I have no idea.

Nearly there, again. The pedal is now firm, and has a couple of inches travel but is not solid, yet.

Although I had cleaned up the auto-adjusters and they worked well out of the drum, I will have to keep an eye on them to ensure they are doing their job. They were solid when I removed them, needing heating to separate the threaded sections, so they are bound to be better,?Yes?

I will use some new fluid to do the final bleed, not today but hopefully Monday or Tuesday.

Time to start welding training. I feel a new thread coming on, AndyT.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 30 Jul 12 at 15:34
Before we start another thread....

I went around the block today, to get turned around for the NSF wheelarch welding which will follow. Brakes are pretty damned excellent. The shoes need bedding in a bit, but eventually, all seems well. I suppose it is my inexperience with vehicles with a wheel at four corners that has done me in. The slack pedal after unclamping the rear axle flexi, was not air but the wheel cylinders filling up. For what ever reason the auto-adjust was not making the amount of adjustment I had expected, so I jumped to the wrong conclusion. Now I know. Thank you all who have put me on the right path.

?The alternator connections? 1no 8mm eye, 1no 4mm eye and 1no 6mm spade. ?Is that right? Again i suppose it is before modular connections, though the dash switches are really easy. 

The 8mm eye is turning with the nut. Not helpful since I am ready to weld in my little patch.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 30 Jul 12 at 15:42
Prsumably you are thinking about protecting the electrics.
If so just disconnect the battery.


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 30 Jul 12 at 15:49
It has an isolator, which cuts both live and earth, so that is doing the job ?yes?



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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 30 Jul 12 at 16:14
Don't know, in theory.......

5 mins, take off the battery connections - that's what I do.
On modern vehicles can piss off the immobiliser etc, but on old stuff never had a problem.


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 30 Jul 12 at 17:49
Thanks again AndyT, first go was not too bad, sorry no picturesEmbarrassed 

The patch was fine for a first piece of tin-bashing, even the tacking was good, nice, round weld right where needed. The welding however, though it got a great hold was less than attractive. Another piece to cut and shape tomorrow, with a photo-rich documentary.

Following the joint is a bit of a pain, so a bit more light is needed too.

Sadly that is it for today, more fun tomorrow.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 30 Jul 12 at 18:25
Takes a bit of learning, light needs to be bright enough to see the edge of the patch you are welding.
Don't bother with led stuff, and make sure the bulb is protected.
Old headlights work ace if you have one, otherwise £20ish for a decent light.

Got 2 of this type no complaints at all:-

http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-electrical-tools/inspection-light.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-electrical-tools/inspection-light.html

Try ebay, possibly cheaper.




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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 30 Jul 12 at 20:22
Plenty spare headlamps...and bulbs...and a new leisure battery...worklight here I come.Clap

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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 31 Jul 12 at 14:06
Did not bother with a lamp today, blazing sunshine, which presents its' own problems for an auto helmet. The patch is in. Not pretty by any means, but it is solid. I will need to clear more of the underseal next time I do any.....and do a lot more practising. It underlines the necessity of having clean material. I found it awkward cutting and cleaning but I suppose there are worse places.




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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 06 Aug 12 at 12:12
Just walked back from the MOT station with high hopes.

When I came to do the fog light, I could not find the black wire in the loom so I ran a new one. ?Is it meant to be in the main loom running down the NS? Not too difficult, but not what I like to see. I decided to take off the trailer hitch and socket. Hitch was a bolt-on which blocked the steps when in position, and I do not have a trailer. The socket went because it was another add-on to the electrical system which was unprofessionally executed.



No photo-rich documentary though but it went better. More practise still though.

While I remember, I mentioned  the odd ORing when I did the half-shafts. I am still not sure of its' function, the little extra bit that is. There is a hole which connects the space behind the oil seal to the area surrounded by the ORings' extension. Once this is all bolted together, it forms a reservoir. The replacement bearing kit has a normal ORing which allows oil seeping past the seal to exit at the flange and so be an early warning of impending hard work. That is my belief, but I have been wrong before, and no doubt will be again.

While I was underneath I took some photographs of the damage that the tinworm has reeked. Best get some metal in since there will not be much left soon.

http://s1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/Chris-R-Batey/LT28%20Bodywork/

Quite pleased at the moment, though it has been a right royal pain at times. 

I know, welcome to the wonderful world of LT ownership....hopefully with an MOT later.Clap


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 06 Aug 12 at 12:27
Can't remember if the MOT is a re-test or not, but there's a couple of similar rust spots that mine has failed on in the past. Need to get busy mate, cos it only gets worse if you leave it.

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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 06 Aug 12 at 12:38
AndyT, it is a full retest due to the inordinate amount of time I have taken. Nothing else has changed, got worse, but there is plenty to do, right enough. Now that I am mobile, almost, I should be able to get out and find panels which need less, better still no, repairing.

Good news later, maybe.Smile


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 06 Aug 12 at 17:11

Smile WooHooSmile

MOT passed, but they fitted a washer motor???...like I could not manage that.

Walking round in the rain, riding back in styleBig smile

Skippy, the Aussie garage man, drove it back from the MOT branch and thought it a 'sweet old bus, drives beaut'

Then I bollocked him for not ringing about the washer motor. Not picked up on the original test, but strangely no good today. Ditto the short rigid line to the NS calliper, and the section of line between the master cylinder and the front union. 'Bollocks, I said, They cannot go from fine to not fine in two months standing still.'  Had a nice little chat about the van, and what we are going to do with it. He knocked a tenner off for the lack of a call.

Anyway, not bothered particularly, but it means redoing the brakes again at some point. Actually enjoyed driving back, about 1/2 mile.Smile




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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: mat_the_cat
Date Posted: 06 Aug 12 at 20:19
Excellent, well done!Smile

Looks to be quite a lot of trapped mud on the underside, so might be worth giving it a good clean so areas that are still solid last longer.


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Mid engined, 6 cylinder, turbocharged 2 seater - it can only be a VW LT!


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 06 Aug 12 at 22:19
Originally posted by mat_the_cat mat_the_cat wrote:

Excellent, well done!Smile

Looks to be quite a lot of trapped mud on the underside, so might be worth giving it a good clean so areas that are still solid last longer.

Have not got up the nerve to turn the jetwash on it, incase it all falls on the drive. Just brushed off all the rest of the crap from the last eight weeks, well whatever did not end up in my hair.

Thank you all again for the support and guidance. I shall endeavour to do the same for others.ClapBeer


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 07 Aug 12 at 17:14
First trip out today, surprisingly the tip to get rid of the old kitchen.

All is well except the brakes have gone off, a lot of soft travel compared to yesterday. I do have a big pot of fluid so I will have to check them out again.Confused

Edit: ?Could be the auto-adjusters not doing their job?

Edit: Brakes fine again. Auto-adjusters must be working, just not funny to have 4" travel from none.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: volition82
Date Posted: 17 Aug 12 at 15:27
Originally posted by LTCamper89 LTCamper89 wrote:

All is well except the brakes have gone off, a lot of soft travel compared to yesterday. I do have a big pot of fluid so I will have to check them out again.Confused
 
 
My brakes went a bit soft after a week or two.  Re-bleed the system again and the brake pedal was better than before.
 
I'm in the process of changing the rear wheel bearings as you have, what a nightmare of a job.  Because we have burning gear and a press at work I thought i'd have ago at doing it myself, which was a mistake.  I heated the bearing and it slide on the shaft right to the end no problems.  My worry with the shrink collar was they said to heat it cherry red then press it on.  As you know if you heat metal that hot and press it too hard it will change it's shape, also you have the seals to worry about as well.  So I thought as the bearing went on so easy I wouldn't heat the shrink collar so hot, just off cherry red which was a big mistake.  It went on so far and then because the work press wasn't quite big enough or powerful enough it seized on solid.  Had to cut it off and the bearing and buy a new one.  I got the new bearing from a local company rather than wanapart (but it was £80!) and the heat shrink collar on that kit had a taper on one end to help seat it better, which would have made the job easier.
 
It's down a local engineering shop at the moment and they are going to do it.  They are going to heat it correctly press it on and then cool it to protect the seal.  I was a bit worried about the cooling but they are an automotive engineering shop which has been around for ages with an excellant reputation.  I think where I went wrong was not heating the shrink collar hot enough.  I should have heated it to cherry red as it states then it would have slid on to the end and it just would have required a small press to make sure it and the bearing were seated correctly.


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1989 LT35 - 2.4 Lpg/Petrol - Converted To Camper


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 17 Aug 12 at 16:36
My worries exactly, Volition82. So many ways it can go wrong for a first-timer. All the 'How-tos' in the world cannot get you over that first step. I decided too much to lose from the outset since no-one on here had done the job, or did not want to embarrass themselves. I think if the heat is right a tube slid down to knock the collar on would be sufficient. Any deformation would be on the end away from the bearing and ORing anyway.

We live and learn. I doubt I will need to do them ever again, but I think I would still go down the professional route, just in case, or until I can afford to cock it up royally.

I have done about a hundred miles so far and it all seems super. Yes, the brakes could do with bleeding again, but at least it stops quick enough at the moment.

I seem to have lost my dash lights, so into the murk behind the steering wheel for me soon.

See you on four wheels some time.Thumbs Up




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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: volition82
Date Posted: 17 Aug 12 at 17:55
Just picked them up from the engineers now and one went on fine and the other required 'a little help'!  I suspect the shrink collar with the taper the shaft side slid straight on.  If I could do the job again i'd make sure they both had the taper or machine it if not. 
 
I made the mistake of using a tube when I did it.  Then I felt a bit of a wally when it was pointed out to me that it makes much more sense to turn it around and press from the stud side with the shaft going through a hole.  That way you are only pressing over a short distance.
 
It's annoyed me no end because i'm sure I could do the job now, but i'm a bit wiser now LOL  My dad told me to take it to the engineers in the first place and is now taking great pleasure in telling me ' I told you so' and 'you'd be £80 better off now'.
 
This might be a bit obvious but you haven't adjusted the dash lights out with the dimmer wheel?  Feel free to tell me to fook off if it's not LOL


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1989 LT35 - 2.4 Lpg/Petrol - Converted To Camper


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 17 Aug 12 at 18:02
No, not the dimmer. the temperature gauge is not functioning, the light is, just not the gauge.

I had to take it all out to do the fog light but had not noticed until today that they were not working. It will be something simple, probably the nut behind the wheel.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: volition82
Date Posted: 23 Jun 13 at 20:30
Are you still having trouble with brake pedal pressure?  I only ask because I was looking through the manual and read something which might apply to your problem.
 
If you read the section on bleeding brakes it's says that the front and rear are on separate systems so unless you touch the master cylinder you can bleed the front and rear separately.  When you bleed the rear you bleed it in the following order (assuming it's a right hand drive vehicle).  Rear left, rear right and brake pressure regulator.
 
I suppose it makes sense that you have to bleed the brake pressure regulator but I wouldn't naturally think that you have to.  Also you would think that it would have to be bleed before the wheel cylinders because it comes before them?  I can only think it's because it's higher than the rear wheel cylinders so if there's any air in the system it will rise to the brake pressure regulator?
 
Anyway i'm waffling.  But that could have been the reason why you had so much trouble bleeding the brake system?


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1989 LT35 - 2.4 Lpg/Petrol - Converted To Camper


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 23 Jun 13 at 23:05
Ye gods, MOT time soon again.Shocked 

Dearly Beloved and I have been out tonight so I missed my 'manual reading night'.Wink

I did do them by the book, but, I think AndyT pointed out, there was an airlock, which meant I was bleeding the same section all the time. I rattled the pipes a few times between sessions of scrabbling underneath. That seemed to work and they were considerably better.

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/zero-electrics-all-of-a-sudden_topic80011.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/zero-electrics-all-of-a-sudden_topic80011.html  After I got home, penultimate post, and got the damn thing running again, the brakes were even better.ConfusedThey are now becoming a little softer again, so I will be mainly under an LT again, soon.


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1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....



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