SA cambelts and brakes |
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B4Tfink
Yardie Joined: 07 Mar 10 Location: Down South Status: Offline Points: 296 |
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Posted: 26 Jun 12 at 18:16 |
Some servicing advice please .. Bought a 1996 sa 2.6 about 2 months ago now , driven it for a week and then its been stored at my mates garage for a few jobs to be done like cambelt and service stuff and while i recover from a shoulder op/sort parking etc. Now im good to drive again im itching to get it back.
My issue is that without stripping it he cant identify the correct cambelt and obviously cant find 2.6 service stuff in his UK manuals.
After its stripped out he can count teeth etc and match one but thought id ask you helpfull chaps what UK audi engine is it closest to with safe to use parts and any advise please on service items?
Also
Brake disks are another item, am i correct in thinking granada disks are the closest with a tickle on a lathe if so what year? any others? even oem can i get them in the UK?
Rear drums also while im here am i looking to rework or replace these? they look different but im not sure without a closer look tbh
Thanks in advance
Rich
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silverbullet
Yardie Ingenieur Joined: 10 Jun 09 Status: Offline Points: 743 |
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Welcome to the fold! Cam belt is 142 teeth IIRC, same as 10v 2.3 Audi 100 etc. I identified the Grandad 2.9i MK3 4x4 front disc as the near-perfect match a while back, posted up here. The centrebore needs opening up if the data sheets are correct. I've been meaning to get a pair to check for a while now.
Pads are Uncle Henry's usual "one size fits all" i.e Escrot thru' to Grandad via XR4 etc
Rear brakes are the same as 16" syncro but the backplates are unique, since the 2.6i uses the usual 2wd / 14" hub bearing carrier but with the 16" shaft and 108mm CV flange (again Audi 100/A6 etc)
Ian
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B4Tfink
Yardie Joined: 07 Mar 10 Location: Down South Status: Offline Points: 296 |
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Thanks Ian.
The bus didnt get used often so im hoping the brakes arnt as bad as initial thoughts, did get some pulse through the pedal.
Just need to get the cambelt changed for piece of mind then i can get to know it better. I feel a long expensive list coming.
Thanks Again
Rich
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silverbullet
Yardie Ingenieur Joined: 10 Jun 09 Status: Offline Points: 743 |
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No worries, tbh they are a bit "VAG parts bin" and only the engine bay hoses are a real problem.
We'll have to get a batch of silicone ones run off for the 2.5 k-jet and 2.3/2.6i versions fairly soon I reckon. The engines are a sort of Audi100/VW T4/Eurovan hybrid with a bit of home-brew SA stuff thrown in,like the F..d-based brakes (from the SA-built XR8 I believe)
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silverbullet
Yardie Ingenieur Joined: 10 Jun 09 Status: Offline Points: 743 |
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Here's the belt numbers that I pulled from my bus as a reference/backup
Timing: Goodyear G1257, 142 S8 T190 (142 tooth, 8mm pitch, 19mm wide) PAS 12.5 x 992 (oem spec) VAG 035 260 849C A/C 12.5 x 976 ALT 12.5 x 875 Note: My 2.6 handbook lists different auxiliary belts for the 2.6 (2 x 875 from memory) so may be a typo/carry over from the 2.5 engine. It would be good to confirm the correct specs so that everyone can fit the correct parts, ETKA lists 9.5 section belts at 850 or 865 long for the alternator (256J/N and 256D/252G respectively) and annoyingly doesn't list the length for the a/c at all!!!
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T3 Nev
Groupie Joined: 05 Mar 12 Location: West Sussex Status: Offline Points: 195 |
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Hi Rich, welcome aboard. What colour is your 2.6? I've got a 2.5 star blue which badly needs a respray. Parts wise we get by fairly well as most of it is a mix of VW and Audi as Ian says. Well worth checking gearbox oil level as gearboxes are a weak spot on these SA buses. Nev.
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B4Tfink
Yardie Joined: 07 Mar 10 Location: Down South Status: Offline Points: 296 |
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Thanks chaps all good info, I got a few receipts/docs with the van will have to dig out and see whats in there,
Its had hoses changed on it recently and an exhaust smuggled back in hand luggage disguised as a giraffe!
Vans white in bus park tin tops. looks better than in the flesh tbh. i`ve got a bit of work to do.
Rich
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silverbullet
Yardie Ingenieur Joined: 10 Jun 09 Status: Offline Points: 743 |
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I have checked the handbook again and it lists these for the 2.6i
Alt 9.5 x 850 (The book advises to always carry a spare!) A/C 12.5 x 992 PAS 12.5 x 992 PS I also changed my trans oil recently for Comma SX 75W90 GL-4, it's done something like 200k km so was ripe for a change even though what came out still smelled OK and wasn't too bronzey-looking. Cold shift 1-2 is definitely better, even on a worn box like mine.
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B4Tfink
Yardie Joined: 07 Mar 10 Location: Down South Status: Offline Points: 296 |
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Hi All Just been to see how my vans going, slow progress and on a parts hunt again.
Im now trying to find a water pump (023 121 019A), Plain Idler/pulley 67mm dia (22S 109 243) and an air filter (FRAM CA5608) says made in SA on it. so would say 7 yrs old at least..
Have tried the usual part monkeys but the response is big intakes of breath through gritted teeth. Have had a few water pumps sent out but nothing close, Idler has been a non starter and air filter too.
Any ideas where/what to try next, alternative part nos, rebuild water pump?.
Thanks Again
Rich.
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silverbullet
Yardie Ingenieur Joined: 10 Jun 09 Status: Offline Points: 743 |
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Hmmm...my water pump has been getting a little noisy when cold but I's always assumed it was the same as the 2.3 10v Audi ones.
Idler should come with the cam belt kit? Air filter you will not find outside of SA. I used an Isuzu Trooper 3.3 TD one as the closest size (Pipercross washable version) but you have to cut about 10mm off the internal neck of the Donaldson filter housing lid to make it fit. There is always the Ren...t Laguna 1.9 TD filter which has the correct length and ID but a much smaller OD, so filtration capacity is reduced but probably fine for a UK vehicle.
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silverbullet
Yardie Ingenieur Joined: 10 Jun 09 Status: Offline Points: 743 |
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Try 034 121 004 A (Audi 80/90) or 054 121 004 AX (earlier Audi A6 AAN 2.2 engine) which should be the same, might just be a tiny difference in the impeller design that makes the difference!
1997 was the last production year for most Audi 5's
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Magalin
Newbie Joined: 11 Jul 12 Location: Durban Status: Offline Points: 5 |
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hy sorry to but in but just wanted to find out how would one no when to changea cambelt, i have a 2.6 caravelle SA Spec
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silverbullet
Yardie Ingenieur Joined: 10 Jun 09 Status: Offline Points: 743 |
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Hi
The usual rule of thumb for cambelts is 5 years or 60,000 miles/100,000km Are you aware of the syncro-SA forum? There are a quite a few 2wd bus owners there so it's not all off-road adventures |
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Magalin
Newbie Joined: 11 Jul 12 Location: Durban Status: Offline Points: 5 |
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thanks for your help.
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B4Tfink
Yardie Joined: 07 Mar 10 Location: Down South Status: Offline Points: 296 |
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Ok i think i may be getting somewhere now.
The issue with the other two pumps tried were:
One was adjustable/slotted fixing holes but different dia pulley,
The other non adjustable but correct dia pulley,
Once the waterpump was identified the belt kit for the same engine was ordered and hey presto idler included, a metal construction but dimensionally correct.
Should get fitted in the next week will update when done
Thanks again for all your help
Rich
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silverbullet
Yardie Ingenieur Joined: 10 Jun 09 Status: Offline Points: 743 |
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Thanks for putting the numbers up, so it's all Audi 100/200 then!
Local factors were struggling to cross-reference the timing belt details then remembered that I've got a Lucas belt catalogue here... Lucas KCB285, 142 teeth, fits all (later) 5-cylinder 10v engines 1982-1994 i.e 90/100/200/coupe and quattro 1980-1989 which also is the equivalent of: Goodyear 142S8T190 Gates #5245 Dayco Pirelli 142SHP190 Continental 6589339 AE Autopart TB318 Bosch 1987949056 Kleber 6.142.190B Unipart GTB1245 E&OE PS have you got a VAG 2084 crank locking tool or a home-made equivalent? Google "vag 2084" there's a sketch on one of the Audi forums for a DIY one. NLA for a few years now but you need it as the crank bolt is torqued to 450 Nm!!! I have made one as a prototype/emergency tool but it was hard work (machining, welding and heavy metal forming) so I'm very reluctant to lend it out. Might make a batch of a few if there's enough interest but they won't be cheap. Forget trying to lock the flywheel on the ring-gear, you'll just risk damaging it.
Edited by silverbullet - 24 Jul 12 at 13:12 |
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B4Tfink
Yardie Joined: 07 Mar 10 Location: Down South Status: Offline Points: 296 |
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Not got the locking tool and probally the reason my mate struggled to get the thing undone. said it was loctite`d too!. he has good experience 30yrs+ with all engines/vehicles so i trust the work he does, it still worries the hell out of me tho. Im going to visit tomorrow see where were at, hopefully hes got an alternative tool to use,
If not i can then get some measurements and stick a toolroom/maint req in at work .
At least he knows what engine to get a replacement ring-gear from if he damages it!
small steps....getting there.
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T3 Nev
Groupie Joined: 05 Mar 12 Location: West Sussex Status: Offline Points: 195 |
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My 2.5 crank pulley bolt was also very tight. Stuck it in 4th gear handbrake on and got the missus to stand on the brakes, with one inch drive and a long pipe we got it loose first time.
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B4Tfink
Yardie Joined: 07 Mar 10 Location: Down South Status: Offline Points: 296 |
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Yay its back ... what a day to have aircon
Engines all serviced and running a treat, just the gearbox oil to change and grease linkages etc and then on the the stone chips!! might even wash it for the first time..
Let the fun begin ..
Rich.
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